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Posts by CrimsonSox

Several people on this thread have mentioned Kenjiro Suzuki, who used to work for CdL and Arnys, and was the former cutter for Smalto.  I came across his Facebook photostream and Twitter page, both in Japanese: https://www.facebook.com/KSSM.PARIS/photos_stream and https://twitter.com/KENJIROPARIS   With Francesco Smalto:     A Milanese buttonhole for a flannel suit:     Navy-on-navy:  
The Duke reflects in A Family Album on differences between British and Americans on coordinating colors:    "However formally they may be dressed, Americans do tend to wear brighter ties than the British do. . . . There are differences between the two races in other such details of dress. I myself like, for example, when I dress in the morning, to see that my tie, socks, shirt, and handkerchief tone, more or less, with the suit I have chosen. I have not noticed many...
Fixed.  I changed to link to get a straight definition of Baumol's cost disease without the Economist's predictions.
 We're closer to that day than we think.  The price of bespoke suits rises faster than inflation (just like the expense of college tuition) because of Baumol's cost disease (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baumol's_cost_disease).  The 1996 edition of Flusser's Style and the Man says an A&S suit cost $2000 ($2930 in inflation adjusted dollars). Today that suit is over $5000 excluding VAT.  A. Caraceni suits were $2600 ($3800 inflation adjusted) and Cifonelli $3800 ($5560)....
There's something of a hidden value in bespoke.  A Samuelsohn suit takes 6 hours to make and costs about $1200.  So it costs $200/hr.  A Camps de Luca takes 70 hours to make and costs about $8800.  That works out to $125/hr.  So despite being much more skill and labor intensive to make, you're paying less per hour for the most expensive hand made bespoke suit than for a machine made suit that's widely (and rightly) seen as being a very good value.     I wouldn't be...
I asked Luk Cha, and his beautiful G&G balmorals are seamless (no back seam or side seam):     Source: http://www.styleforum.net/t/187914/the-ultimate-hardcore-shoe-porn-thread-bespoke-only/540#post_3867228
I think you're right Foo to prefer fewer seams.  It's a more elegant look, the cordwainer's version of Scholte's practice of having fewer seams on his suit jackets and sport coats.  Here's a seamless heel bespoke from Henry Maxwell. Source: http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/henrymaxwell04/maxwell04.html       A view of the inside of the shoes:     The outside:     The top:  
 Allen Edmonds makes some shoes with a straight back seam, which makes me wonder about the quality of that construction method. 
We usually associate A&S with double-breasted suits, but if they made this single-breasted suit for Prince Charles, I love it.  The shoulders have a good angle, they're not too sloped, and the sleevehead is natural.  The waist suppression is done nicely too.  These photos are from 1981 if it helps to determine the maker of the suit.       
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