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Posts by CrimsonSox

  American businessmen today tend to wear very dark charcoal or navy suits in a single-breasted notch-lapel model.  The fabrics are hard-finished worsted.  The suit shoulders are wide and the fit rather boxy.  The elegant minority influenced by Italy or Britain aside, most American businessmen do not wear pocket squares.  The shirts are usually white.  If they're spread collar, it's a moderate spread with very little roll, though BDs are sometimes worn.  The collars sit...
The British poet and memoirist Siegfried Sassoon in a three-piece POW check suit (1920).  Note the natural shoulder and lovely lapel roll:  
A detailed review of Charvet from the Chicago Daily Tribune, September 29, 1909. The article features not only shirts, but also tailored clothes from Charvet, including a sack coat with a suppressed waist and trim trousers without a break (the cycle of fashion turns 360 degrees).  The formal shirts for eveningwear are made of linen, as mentioned in this previous thread with a photo from the Metropolitan Museum of...
 I usually find them in a vault in the desert. 
A cherished blog, Heavy Tweed Jacket, that I've followed for years has just closed: http://heavytweed.blogspot.com/ (Derek has the announcement here: http://putthison.com/)  I've always appreciated and enjoyed the vintage Brooks Brothers and LL Bean catalogs he posted, as well as the oxford cloth button-down shirt reviews.  Here's to hoping for our friend to return soon.
Today's theme is the young Prince of Wales, keeping in mind that Scholte was his tailor starting in 1919.   The collar of the jacket fits well, hugging the neck.             I remember Vox once quoting Luciano Barbera, who said he knew he could be friends with you, if you could play golf in a jacket:     Gorgeous overcoat, though the Duke (then the Prince) did not use Scholte for his overcoats, to the best of my knowledge.  Note the rounded...
This thread is to post historical review of firms and guides to style (1960s and older).  We'll start with a guide to Paris firms from Vogue, July 15, 1931.  Some fascinating finds: robes and handkerchiefs made of "sheer linen printed in the designs and colours of foulards."  We'll also discover that in the 1930s, cologne could smell like a "mixture of tobacco and Russian leather."   A preview of coming attractions: next week we will have a review of Charvet from a...
I forgot to include this photo from the Duke's and Duchess' wedding.  The best man is Fruity Metcalfe, the Duke's friend and equerry, who was also a client of Scholte's.  
The windowpane suit.  I love looking at that suit shoulder.  It's the picture of moderation: neither too straight nor too sloped; neither too wide nor too narrow.  Richard Anderson once wrote that Scholte had the reputation of making the best shoulder on the Row in the early to mid 20th century.     Black tie with turn-down spread collar and white pocket square.  Note the similarity in the shoulder:     If I ever include a photo that's already been posted by a...
Brooks Brothers gloves, 1936, from Horace Sleep's (the firm mentioned in the Vogue 1927 London shopping guide).     In 1986, Brooks had dinner jackets made of dacron/wool.  In 1936, dinner jackets were made of vicuna, and suits in English flannels, cheviots, shetlands, saxonies, and Harris Tweeds.      
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