or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by dbhdnhdbh

It was a very polite way of saying "we do not consider this severe enough to be a defect. We will not redo the heels. But thanks for your business. Aren't they great shoes?"   If it really bothered someone, and the manufacturer would not "fix" it, could they just get a cobbler to level the heels?
Lands End used to sell a very warm down coat, I think they called it a "commuter coat". I have had one for years. It is quite long and they offer (or offered) a long version. If you are short, like me, it hits well below the knees. With a detachable hood, it wraps your head completely.   Not a fashion item by any means, but it has a smooth (not quilted) outer shell so you don't look like the Michelin man. It would be good for Michigan winters. I don't remember what I...
And those stitches are enough to prevent the shank from moving when resoling? With handwelted I gather resoling does not involve any disturbance of the area. With GY welted, where the cork is removed, any risk of the shank being displaced? With GYW are shanks stitched in place, or attached in some other, faster, way?   I either case are the shanks slexible enough to simply bend by hand? For factory work, do they have a box of pre bent shanks, set for a given last and...
DW,   I was referring to lasting a shoe, bending a shank to fit while it is lasted, but having the bend conform to the insole rather than the last then removing the last and having the shank fit properly. Hard for the lay person to imagine how one could make that come out right, but apparently bespoke makers do this, avoid the heel spring, and the shanks fit.
I suppose it is like many other things. Easy if you know what you are doing.
So you bend each shank by hand to match the insole? How do you ensure that this relationship does not change when you remove the last? Is the bending done with the last in place, or before you last the shoe?
Shanks can be too strong? They are supposed to flex somewhat?
Well, I'm hopelessly confused. It seems to be too common to be a mistake, unless it is a mistake factories make so often that it is the norm. I have it in old style longwings with pretty hefty metal shanks. Just a stylistic choice? Avoiding it would have required an even stronger shank?  As you experts work it out, can you include diagrams?
I may not have understood the question, but I thought he was referring to the heel not sitting perfectly flat on the floor, but rather the back end of the heel raised slightly. I think DW is talking about a gap between the FRONT of the heel and the rest of the sole.
I was referring to simple mechanics. Of course I have walked barefoot, so I don't think that "barefoot" would be revelatory. But when you extend your leg any distance, how do you come down on the midfoot rather than the heel? At a short stride length I can see how it would be possible, but as your leg is closer to horizontal the midfoot is farther from the ground than your heel. How do you take a normal length stride and get the midfoot down? Is there something about a...
New Posts  All Forums: