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Posts by dbhdnhdbh

I suppose I meant "that is a lot of time from someone with those skills for $400". This appears, to me, to be far beyond what one would expect when resoling and restoring the upper. Perhaps DW does this when he resoles shoes he has made (except for the gemming, of course), but it looked like that person should have been making shoes and farmed out the resole to someone else, at a lower rate of pay.   From what you experts saw, were those beat up old boots worth that much...
That is a lot of skill and work for $400!   Which hidden channel technique was that? Vertical, horizontal, angled? Can you see it well enough to tell?
Cemented soles:   I don't get the contempt heaped on cemented soles in this thread. That approach is used in a very large number of shoes worn by a very large number of men and most seem quite satisfied with what they get. Far from falling off, it appears that one can cement soles in place very firmly. In my limited experience I have athletic shoes and hiking boots, each subjected to heavy abuse of different kinds. Both types get lots of abrasion, lateral movement and...
DW, Regarding hand vs machine stitching soles:   Thanks. I spoke freely secure in the knowledge that you would correct and elaborate.
Re: handstitching the sole to the welt. I think DW has said that, although that handstitching is his routine approach for new shoes, he will machine stitch the soles for clients who are so price conscious that the subtantial savings is worth it to them. I think he has said that most people prepared to pay for bespoke shoes want the full handmade experience, but he does not insist on it. If DW is willing to do that, then he cannot consider the difference between hand and...
Nick, Do you charge more to resole HW shoes? DW, As I said, I can imagine all sorts of reasons to prefer bespoke shoes. Like many other luxury items I will never buy, I am sure the superiority of HW will be obvious to those who really care. Just pointing out that the possibility of significant gemming failure is hardly a reason to go HW. If your GYW gemming fails, I suspect most men would never know. The cobbler would reattach it, resole, and give them back. Since you...
Not sure I understand the part about the repair department turning down the recrafting job? I assume they could always do this, but what has it to do with GY welting? If the shoes were GY welted originally, surely the recrafting would be GY welted as well? Perhaps "easy" overstates it. I have never seen it done. The article did not declare this to be a major problem, requiring an army of experts to accomplish. It sounded like a routine part of shoe care. If there is more...
LS7, I had the same reactions. I did not assume the worker removing the cork was being sloppy, just that it was surprising that getting it out required so much force. From DW's comments, I expected it to fall out. At worst, to requires some brushing. I also shared your reaction- if slipped Gemming just means rewelting, what's the big deal? Welts get replaced when worn or damaged and the shoes live on. If one were to switch to a much more labor intensive and expensive...
Another fascinating discussion. Thanks DW.   The cement vs GY concept got me thinking about whether the two really are equivalent. Perhaps this is my failure to really understand GY, but it seems that the role of cement, and the consequences of failure would be different.   Cement construction: If the cement fails completely, all around the shoe, then the sole would fall off. It was only the cement that attached the upper and insole to the outsole. No cement, not...
Very interesting comments from the people I had hoped would reply. For the thicker insoles in HW I can see that a resilient insole filler could interfere with footbed formation. With the thinner insoles in GYW does the insole itself conform, as in a HW shoe? Or does it displace, temporarily, the cork and form a footbed that lasts until the next resole?   I still wonder whether people who need orthotics are left out with this system. They get conventional HW or GYW...
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