Is there any rush? If not, then go with Kent Wang. You'd need to get the charcoal trial suit first, and then you work from there. The nice thing is that once you get everything dialed in with Kent Wang, it's really easy to add suits, pants, and jackets as you go on. I've never noticed much difference between half and full canvassed (though there is a difference). Regardless, gray and navy over navy and navy. And medium gray is a good bet.