Do not size up they will stretch in the wash. They're using a new mill now apparently to combat this, got a batch recently but haven't washed them, fabric feels the same but construction around neck is better
Arigold it will be calf if you got the black FW one with the shiny zippers, the new season navy one for SS is lambskin.
I feel the current Galliano 5zip has shorter arms, slightly shorter body. Definitely tighter around the top instead of the dropped shoulder of the previous cut.