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Posts by Musella

  I don't think it is a bad advice...feeling is all and it is a pretty central thing in tasting fabrics, then if he goes to buy a well made fabric he will understand what I'm saying, also because they will explain the craft of it. However you are right, starts with english sources to begin with, the italian fabrics are more "difficult" to choose.
So bad to hear this news...he was a very passionate and talented artisan...only 48 so sad. RIP Stefano
You should not pay too much attention on "myths". Just experience and feel the fabric as been said. Italian fabrics have been improved a lot, the quality now is better than some years ago but you have to understand that some mills do some products better than other and others are not so great, and so on...
  I understand the narrower cut and also the lightweightness (right?) of the fabric (and I also understand the house cut of the tailor) infact I think that the overall work is nice and well executed, but that could be done without wrinkling on the sleeves - precisely, is the trumpet of the sleeve to cause that problem and not the sleeve beeing too large to the effective roundness of the sleeve collar (BTW for those others asking, this is not the "manica a camicia" typical...
If you mean those horizontal puckerings on the sleeve the answer is "not acceptable": the sleeve is too tight fitting and the sleeve doesn't get the amplitude of the arm..the result?no breath, the sleeve are not well proportioned.
eheheheh!! Don't worry because many people suffer OCD about that too! :D
There is a lot more to quality super numbers: right said I think that you should touch and feel, understand the differences between an italian fabric and an english one. Without touching and feeling nothing is important.. for example, sometimes a Super 190 is not better than a Super 150 or a 160. There are lot of explenations here but I think we could almost write a book. I had and have the opportunity to work with almost all the fabrics available on the market and...
no, if you brush only a very thin layer, you have to use it by brushing (and a very very small amount - if you use too much of it, it will cause slippery).  Use just a very small amount (your nail dimension it will be good), then damp it on a cotton cloth and spread it/brush it on the sole. 
Since I'm a tailor and I like to wear my own suits, I almost use them to meet other people and also to go everywere in the city. Althought what you are saying is true, I wear them without thinking too much...you should also think to pollution, to the dirty air and streets and everything else...too many things to care about...should stay in a crystal glass without moving  :D ;)   I would avoid cleaning...only if strictly necessary.  Just randomize the use of them.
Nice thread :)   I agree with waxing laces, that can be done also with beeswax (this one is softer than candle stick and also leave the laces to a good movement). Also, beeswax can be sofly brush on the sole to mantein the fibre and wear less.   About the suits, you should avoid to send them to a cleaner (dry cleaner or not). I suggest you to have more than two or three suits and to choose proper weight fabrics for every seasons. Also avoid the brushing on a...
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