If you mean those horizontal puckerings on the sleeve the answer is "not acceptable": the sleeve is too tight fitting and the sleeve doesn't get the amplitude of the arm..the result?no breath, the sleeve are not well proportioned.
There is a lot more to quality super numbers: right said
I think that you should touch and feel, understand the differences between an italian fabric and an english one. Without touching and feeling nothing is important.. for example, sometimes a Super 190 is not better than a Super 150 or a 160. There are lot of explenations here but I think we could almost write a book.
I had and have the opportunity to work with almost all the fabrics available on the market and...
no, if you brush only a very thin layer, you have to use it by brushing (and a very very small amount - if you use too much of it, it will cause slippery). Use just a very small amount (your nail dimension it will be good), then damp it on a cotton cloth and spread it/brush it on the sole.
Since I'm a tailor and I like to wear my own suits, I almost use them to meet other people and also to go everywere in the city. Althought what you are saying is true, I wear them without thinking too much...you should also think to pollution, to the dirty air and streets and everything else...too many things to care about...should stay in a crystal glass without moving :D ;)
I would avoid cleaning...only if strictly necessary. Just randomize the use of them.
Nice thread :)
I agree with waxing laces, that can be done also with beeswax (this one is softer than candle stick and also leave the laces to a good movement). Also, beeswax can be sofly brush on the sole to mantein the fibre and wear less.
About the suits, you should avoid to send them to a cleaner (dry cleaner or not). I suggest you to have more than two or three suits and to choose proper weight fabrics for every seasons.
Also avoid the brushing on a...
how many ply your Fresco fabric is?also how many metres?it seems a good metrage to be used for a suit.
I have a beautiful blue Fresco here for one of my customers. This one is a 3 ply Fresco, very used by Caraceni from 50s on..one of their favs.
In september when I will start working it I will show you something if you desire. :)
I think few salesmen do their job correctly, but sometimes as said, they want to sell you what they sell less (or they will have lot of suits and jackets in the keeping room).
Also alterations are sometimes a problem for them summed up by three things:
1) they prefer to don't do alterations because if they don't have a tailor to do a proper job and you are not satisfied with the final fit, they will do alterations more and more again (time/tailor expense vs effective...
Some fresh new tweeds arrived recently. These are special hand loomed tweeds and are made of shetland wool and cashmere or vicuna or silk, the quality is top notch here! Which one do you prefer?hmmm...
Incotex has a nice quality chino (actually the one I saw are cotton and linen called chinolino), otherway if you are searching for a classic with a good cotton quality go at Brooks Brothers.
Other thing is an hand-mesured made chino, different thing I know, the costs are different but the product is there.