you are right. chest is not the big problem but i think that most of the yohji stuff should not fit like a bespoke suit so shoulder size is important. all of the ss12 jackets i tryed on were small fit. espacially the soft fleecy cotton ones i liked and all of the cubism stuff. they just did not fit me even in size 4 (if available). they looked on me like a thight bespoke suit. i bought than a trouser made of this cotton in size 4. this was true to size. funny.