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Posts by TweedyProf

What in particular? There are old threads one can plow through although a lot of needless hot air. But I would put it down to three main points1. Gemming, in its reliance on cement, has the disadvantages of that method relative to hand stitched and if it fails there are some substantial negative consequences that can only be addressed adequately by recrafting at the original factory.2. The probability of a given type and make of shoe failing in respect of gemming and...
Thanks for report AC. Antonio,in what ways has the Tipo been adjusted? I was pretty happy with the fit but a slightly more nipped waist would be good. It fit a bit more straight down on me. Is the navy check with orange Over check a f/w version of the s/a Carson street was carrying?
Nice, AC. Thanks.   What of sports coats in blue or brown? How did the blue donegal look?
@jssdc   Yeah, I meant the last comment in jest.   I think the point that gets lost in those old threads is that DFW is correct about the structural issue: cementing is inferior to stitching, and GYs involve cementing at a crucial structural step.   I don't think clear headed thinkers disputed that.  What is left open is the actual "peril" a shoe owner faces given the nature of gemming in a random pair of GY welted shoes. I think by DFW's own admission, it is not...
I like cognac/tan/chestnut. It's how you pair it. I don't mind the pairing with navy but I think it's a way of calling attention to oneself that is unnecessary in most circumstances and there are more pleasing options. On gemming...I suspect the probability is low that there will be issues but was struck by how the guts of the shoe are dependent on it.
So here's what I've learned about gemming. Almost all high-end shoe manufacturers in their RTW line use gemming in their goodyear (GY) welted shoes. As the ribbing is cemented to the insole and to which the upper is then attached to the insole, the detatchment of gemming could have severe consequences for the structure of the shoe. In the worst case, if the gemming is reglued at the wrong location by your local cobbler, this is effectively as if the shoe is relasted on a...
I feel like it is a peacock look for lack of a better word, like wearing your PS with points splaying out like fireworks. The shoes of such a lovely color will draw attention on their own. Of course, there are times where one may wish to call attention in this way...ymmv
I think I understand now and I can see I was a bit daft even with that last diagram. If the gemming comes undone then even an inside stitch of welt, upper and ribbing will not tell you with accuracy where the gemming was attached. Then the shap of The shoe can change if it is not attached within reasonable accuracy to its previous location. Which is why some members in an earlier thread spoke of a tighter fit on resoling. At least it could explain their feeling the shoe...
DFWII   Thanks. I'm still curious why one can't reasonably infer the location of the gemming? So sorry for being daft here. I'm looking at this diagram:   I hope this is accurate. When one resoles, one cuts the outside stitching and removes and restitches a sole? But if the gemming comes loose, isn't the inside stitch sufficient to hold the materials together such that, given the stitch, it is clear where the rib goes?
There's the cotton tan solaro suit from NMWA that could go very nicely with your shoes.   Anyone want to talk about gemming?
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