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Posts by TweedyProf

Can someone remind me about the red-green color issue with some of the brown suedes used (I vaguely recall an article about this in the blogosphere). What of Carminas? Patiently waiting for polo suede restock in rain last.
@Ttailor  Just want to learn here. If you were cutting a shirt for someone who had a large drop from chest to waist, what are the strategies (speaking fairly generally of course).
@nothing145 IMO, I think this is the hardest way to get things to fit well by MTM, i.e. providing body measurements. It seems that you have prominent shoulder blades and a forward pitch in the shoulder. It really requires some more thought and not just cutting a garment based on body measurements which cannot capture the specific contours of your shoulders, upper back. I really wouldn’t recommend this route for your MTM. You really need to see someone in person. One option...
I'm not sure I should suggest this but I have done it before where I needed about 0.5 inch of shrinkage (this means I know what my target measurement is).Soak just the collar in hot water for 15 min. Then throw it in dryer. I get around 3/8-1/2 inch shrinkage. In cold I don't get my shirt to budge much. But take measurements before to make sure that much shrinkage will be ok. I suppose you can go slowly (warm water, dry on lower heat). Mine had a non fusible lining.Again...
They might cut it bigger given more shrinkage for this fabric (linen). Have you washed it yet? Collar points should touch shirt. It's not bad. Could be slimmer here and there. Do you have a lower right shoulder? Perhaps shirt maven (Carl from CEGo) will weigh in?
@nothing145    Did you provide your own measurements or is the suit far off from the measurements you provided. I think you should send it back. I suspect it would be too much work to fix what can be fixed and you are not likely to have enough fabric in the back to give you more room.   @Shirtmaven    As a shirt maker yourself, do you mind explaining whether most things that can be done with darts can be done at the side seam or are there points where darts are...
Which fit? Havana? Tried one on while I was in Antwerp. Surprisingly decent button stance (they seem to have dropped it lower). Still on the short side but not obscenely so. 
I posted these on GNAT but they are probably worth discussing. I find them really beautiful (from Magic in the Moonlight, Woody Allen's most recent picture)   I assume they are true to English tailoring of the period. Note three-button jackets, lower gorge, wide lapels, structured shoulders. I think the pairings are really nice. Layering, even dark gun checks in the south of France. Not sure when the season is supposed to be...  
Really a pleasure to watch. The tailoring is impeccable and many of the choices, as in the pics, are really quite nice. The fit on everyone's tuxedos in the ball scene is impressive. Much to learn from. The movie itself is lite fare, but sweet. Firth shines despite the script: a rational man who succumbs to the irrational. 
Let's focus on beauty instead 
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