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Posts by carpu65

Look how changes the image of a double breasted with appropiate peak lapels of right widht (and high gorge).  
You have right.For exemple,today in Naples ( especially foreigners customers) ask for soft cut,spalla camicia and so.So the tailors fof Neapolitan structurate school (the Blasi School) make they too spalla a camicia,soft interiors...And is a pity.Liverano and Cappelli's coats have the darts,but are slanted darts,diagonals from the pockets to the armpit.Is a type of dart clean and pleasent,i agree.
Well,is difficult to said.In Italy we have only a case of great tailoring house survived to the death of master,and perpetrated with less or more the same style:Caraceni.A part Rubinacci, the Italian tailoring houses system is different by the Saville Row system.In Saville Row the tailoring houses are firms,in Italy artistic "botteghe".We have a "maestro" that develops his cut and his style that is individual.Can be some features in common in a city,but the style of great...
I doubt that the red coat is for a Italian customer.Said this,i like Cappeli much more than Liverano; the lapels are not so large (in true Italian 1950s-60s style),the garnment is clean,the quarter less open but still round.Is a great single breasted,and .More,the not frontal darts ( that is a different to "no darts",as in American Ivy league tradition) thing are a very rare feature today,both in Italy and in UK.
Simple. From his blog.   http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/2016/01/20/classic-portrait-photography/   http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/2015/09/08/match-up-between-two-bespoke-navy-blue-db-suits/   And this is the tailor:   http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/2013/11/07/michele-mescia-tailor-alain-john-elkann/
A superb Piedmontese (Turin) double breasted!
Florentines (especially traders) are reserved,suspicious and a bit cold. Established tailors have their customers and don't care much to procure new,especially if are to top,as Liverano at this time. Many tailors are "invisibles",working at home with a bunch of loyal customers,in this way not pay taxes or rent for the shop...and of course the price is at reasonable level. In Italy is called "economia sommersa" ("underwater economy" or "shadow economy")...also many...
Cappelli is about 3500 euros for a two pieceDepends by fabric...and by customer.
Overpriced. In Florence are a lot of good tailors very less expensive.    
Brooks Brothers 1940. From Esquire magazine 1940:  
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