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Posts by carpu65

  A gentle waist suppression,but not shapeless at waist.(of course is subjective),
Domenico Casiero (tailor). Milan 1961. Casiero was a master of "doppiopetto" (double breasted). This is in the beautiful clean look of Italian early 60s.  
  Who are?
Paris 1957. To the left,the tailor (Italian born) Di Nota and the tailor Bardot. Di Nota have a wonderful double breasted,in my opinion. The DB of Bardot is a "Kent" model.  
"Kent" double breasted....and NO,NO,NO,is not a 80s thing.        
But in your opinion is that suit a Anderson & Sheppard?
 David,as i have write many times i like very much your style (maybe because remember to me the better bespoke of early 60s a age that i love).You have touched a important point: in past decades bespoke tailors interpreted their age.Many were classic but not "timeless",and many of them followed ( or created) the trends.Now,maybe for the high cost of a bespoke suits or for other reasons tailors and customers want a "timeless" style (that for the double breasted seems to be...
 Personally i prefer a more classic take on DB,but is matter of taste.A more slender lapels on DB work better if button stance is more close and overlapping moderate.A high gorge and natural non extended shoulders can help. Double breasted have a long history and various configuration through the ages,this is one.Can like or not,but is not "wrong" or RTW,
A interesting thing about double breasted is that seems to be a mathematic relation between the various parts of the garnment and his proportions. For exemple,here is a double breasted cut by David Reeves and show in this thread. The suit was criticized by some for the slender lapels. I have found that if you move the buttons more close,reduce slightly the overlapping and add the two top buttons ( creating a ideal slender rectangle) the lapels are in perfect harmony...
Very 1920s! I like!
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