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Posts by edmi

In my experience I'd wear 29 if I could find it. ( Returned 30 as too big for my taste, but would work if I wanted a looser fit with time ). For comparison I wear 28/29 in APC/Fullcount, 30 in 3Sixteen / Acne, and 29 Tellason / RRL. OL first cut - a really good versatile cut  - slim with taper but not tight, a little more space in the rise hips and thighs than many slim fits, fabric has good colour and hand. Denim feels good, time will tell how it breaks in and wears....
I'd recommend Tellason Ladbroke Grove ( tapered ) or John Graham Mellor ( straight ) 12,5 oz Cone Denim,  or 3Sixteen's ST/SL cut in their new summer weight 12oz. Both manufacturers passionately stand by their made in the USA products - both do most of their manufacturing out of San Fransisco, Tellason exclusively.   The main deciding factor between these two would be fit and denim preference:   Fit: Tellasons fit looser in the waist for relative leg/hip measurements...
If you're in an APC store, I'd suggest you try more styles - even just for comparison. I'd suggest you try a NS in 25, PNS in 25 and 26, and compare with the 26 PS. In my experience you can go a size down in a higher rise jean ( NS, PNS ) , get the slimness you're after, and all without the ball-crushing.
Absolutely spot-on here - aim for a close fit on the thighs, not sausage tight. Equally important, consider the rise - got some bulk behind and more athletic thighs? Consider a size down in NS over the PS for example - you may surprise yourself.
  Soaking is preferable - they will shrink too, mostly in the leg, but you'll not lose so much dye and they'll stay dark and go back to your shape quickly. Machine washing will shrink them, higher heat a bit more than cool, but it's really agitation / the spin that shrinks natural fabrics like cotton and wool. You'll also wash out more dye. Wool wash is all you'll need if you do machine wash your APC's. In both cases they will stretch back out, with wear, to before wash...
PNS front and back rise is more similar to the NS than the PS. It's closer to an aggressively tapered NS than the PS, though the back rise is a tiny bit lower / flatter than the NS. The PNS is a true slim (very) tapered jean - it's not in my opinion a pair especially suited to guys with especially thick legs though - for that I'd recommend a NS ( and have it tapered to your measurements if you like a narrow hem )   If it helps with a relative size guide, I wear both NS...
If anyone was wondering about bedford 519's  - they're excellent. They feel like trousers you could wear to the beach, then pimp up with some decent shoes + shirt and go to the office / on a date in. Fabric is durable and stretches out a bit, and they don't bind on runner's/cyclist's thighs - they're comfortable pretty much straight away. Size wise, I take 32 in 54's, 33 in 47's  - and size 31 is the best fit in Bedford 519's on me. The short inseam length may not...
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