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Posts by rodes

Check out " A Suitable Wardrobe" by Will, also a member here. Search under "stroller", especially April 18,2012 for the classic version. A fine,modern photo can be viewed on the Knize Bespoke, Vienna site under the German word stressman. You will never regret acquiring one of these. I always recieve respectful compliments from young and old, male and female when I wear mine.
If the wedding is during daylight hours, my favorite is always semi-formal day wear, also called black lounge. This consists of charcoal DB or SB peaked lapel stroller with buff or light gray waistcoat, checked trousers, long silver tie. This never calls undue attention because those who do not recognize the ensemble will consider it as a dressy odd jacket and those who do will admire you for it. With matching trousers this coat is quite versatile, especially in DB style...
Have a good tailor sew it closed. About 15$ will solve the problem. Then, try to stay with side vebts from now on.
This would be my solution assuming you are updating and already have an existing professional wardrobe. My first five suits would be 12 to 13 ounce worsted. 1.Mid to dark grey 2.Navy 3.POW check 4.Grey DB (Could well be chalk stripe if you do not like the DB. I am tall and slender and have to be careful with stripes.) 5.Navy DB (same as above) My next five would be very much like the first five except made from 10 ounce fresco in perhaps slightly lighter...
In my view this is the most elegant and versatile sock pattern known to civilized man. Will has a few at his Suitable Wardrobe Store which I already have. Where else can they be found?
Advice from a fellow Pennsylvanian. Here is what I would do and did. Send your best fitting coat to mytailor.com and tell them to duplicate the fit with the style and details that you want. It will take about two months and will cost less than half of BB MTM with better quality. Get very dark charcoal (oxford gray). For warm weather a high-twist, 10 oz. cloth like fresco or for cold a fine herringbone of about 13 oz.  I would advise a DB for it is actually more versatile...
Suits are best commissioned with trousers cut to be worn at the natural waist. This means braces, side tabs (if desired but none are better), no belt, no belt loops.
Yes, it is worth it. I am not quite as vertical as you, but almost, and it is a good value for me. This is especially true if you get the right MTM provider, know what you want, and convey your requirements to him in a well defined manner. Although not as good as bespoke, MTM could be one third the cost and your choices of detail and cloth are nearly unlimited.
I am 60, 6-1, 166 pounds. I work in a small Pennsylvania city and wear a DB suit perhaps 3-4 days a week in winter,1-2 in mid-year, 1 in summer. Have never experienced this stare even in a very traditional, SB town. If it is there at all, it is a respectful glance. Indeed since I began wearing the DB, perhaps 4 years ago and after reading Manton's fine book, I have noticed other men wearing them.
Manton,  A  knowledgeable  man once wrote, "Suits may be single or double-breasted...single being more common but double more stylish" (Antongiavanni,74,2006).  And again "Thus it [ the DB ] has always been a favorite of the best dressed...(Antongiavanni,119). Take counsel in his knowledge.
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