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Posts by Tropicalist

To me consumerism is about spending silly sums of money on branded products when you could spend less money on bespoke, artisanal or niche. One simply requires the capacity to pay, te other requires interest, passion and research. The question is probably more whether clothes are important enough to warrant that kind of care. To that answer is that clothes have always been a key part of personal and political statement. Gandhi, Nehru and Jinnah discarded their sevill row...
English tailors will often push you Italian fabrics while Italian tailors will often sing praises of English ones. To me the fabric quality is similar fort he same weight. English fabrics generally have a better selection of types of design, patterns and finish that I like- so I wear it almost exclusively. But this is because I like navy blue or charcoal gray in plain or pin stripes with a matte and milled finish.
The sybarite and the stoic have always coexisted. Both Antony and Cato came to a bad end. The point is you follow a certain philosophy and arguing about which point of view is correct is going to create good debates but never going to lead to any conclusions. Over the last 10 years I have focused on bespoke done by a very competent tailor in Bangkok, and buying only from artisans like Sam Hober or Eqqus leather. I find my overall costs have come down relative to ...
Get your tailor to lower the neckband when you get your shirts made and make sure through can comfortably insert one finger between collar and neck. Most collar bands are too high and collar too tight. There should be no difference in comfort between an open top button and tie or aclosed top button and tie.
The question somewhat answers itself. If any aspect of bespoke is uncomfortable it requires changing. You should be able to forget what you are wearing.
I recently replaced over 30 ties from my collection with Sam Hober. Without a single doubt in my mind the best ties available at any price.
Just a disguised commercial. Becoming more and more common.
A lighter blue will be more stylish than navy.
An unlined and untipped tie simply looks to me as if the wearer ran out of money while getting the tie constructed midway.
Thanks for all those who responded. Just typing this out in the airport lounge to kill time. Here is a report back on what I found in New York. It was sale season. Paul Stuart - spend 30 minutes. Clothes were ok in quality but a bit unimaginative. The casual belts were very nice. Service was so so. Did not buy anything. JJ hats - great little shop. Good attentive service. No sale. Bought a Panama. Nice but ehire wehn i really wanted natural straw colour. Promptly lost it...
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