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Posts by Brendon

Hi Eyoo and anyone else who has a similar looking suit. Shoulders are fine. If you want to see a ridiculous pair of shoulders lapels etc look to that fashion police show on TV. Look at the lines from the back of the shoulders to the should points at the front. Dont know the guys name but he looks like he sent to the drycleaners and they washed it with the horse blanckets. If you want to look feminine then great ....take in the shoulders and keep the coat short. This...
Hi Jeffrey D I have enjoyed reading this thread. Disclosing my hand I am a Bespoke Tailor and Cutter living in New Zealand. I travel to Savile Row every year to the home of Bespoke tailoring to learn a little more every year. It is a fascinating trade and thre are days when I love it. It has endless possibilities. I have been trained over the years by an ex Savile Row tailor and cutter and even though I have a degree of knowledge, a man from Gieves and Hawkes stated in...
Hi Ftard cannot give you any advice from your photo's other than to say a very well cut suit will stay relatively still when you lift your arms. Your suit is trying to fly over your head. However post a side on a front on and a back on and stand naturally (not upright as if on a parade ground) and I will be happy to offer some advice for what it's worth regards Brendon
Hi Itsmejsn hard to say. 38short or 40 short. Here are the things to weigh up. If you are still playing sport smaller size ok. When we start serious work other areas of our life suffer and weight is easy to put on. ie  pinot noir or richer foods. Consider this. The weakness of this is the front edge...where the buttoning happens. If this is too loose then this looks sloppy quickly and is hard to alter unless the posture is errect then there is sort of an alteration...
Hi Luddite Not trawling for Business. But regrettably I am a Bespoke Cutter and Tailor. Just keen to help though. can only make so many suits a year and get booked up easily with no apprentice as yet. Still on my 35 year learning curve or will one day go broke and then I will be the one packing supermarket shelves as I will never sell a made to measure suit again...ever. Just keen to post some advice for any at this stage and keep some degree of anon I will post a...
Apoloigies JKhan82 and thanks Despos for assisting. I can give you a very technical answer on how to fix all. However passing down the back is not difficult and will make a significant difference to your coat.Centre vent or no vent is best as it makes the alteration easier. Shortening the bottom of the coat will do nothing as it is all over for the drape by the time it gets there. This is a posture thing. The inside and the outside of the curve.  The short front Balance...
Your posture is errect. Whatever you do buy a suit with a centre vent so that the back can be passed down as an alterarion with an alteration tailor. Your trousers are too short and your posture causes all sorts of problems in the drape of the leg of a trouser. The armhole depth is not causing the bunching of the shoulder. Think of the inside vs the outside of the curve. Your front is the outside and your back the inside. One is longer one is shorter. Suggest you see a...
In my opinion the coat is too long in the back ie back balance if this is your natural posture. Fashion garment do tend to be too tight rather than fitting. Look likes you have slept in it. Look at the trousers side on, they are like corrugated roofing iron or cardboard. Welcome to the world of fashion Style over substance. When you have moved your arms up the coat is trying to fly off your body. Always a sure sign of an off the peg or factory made to measure Good...
The  trousers are clattering into your calf as you stand on your trousers. The button on the jacket is too high which accentuates the coat projecting outwards from below the button. Trousers hard to fix. All you can do is clear out the seat.  as an exercise to demonstrate what you are doing turn side on as you are and stand errect upright and see the trousers tuck up under your seat and hit your  calf muscles.  A pleated trouser with a larger fork area may help...
This is acceptable in England if the coat is what is termed very straight in the pattern...Sitting off the neck may not be a problem if the cut is flattering. However I think I can see by the lapel that this coat is crooked and is trying to jump to the neck. Therefore if you have chosen fashion forward ie actually too tight all over then the coat will leap off the neck if the coat is too tight in the chest. ie it wont sit down. If this is not the case all you can do is...
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