or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by Brendon

Of course Jmjm, there are only enough tailors to service a small area of the market. MTM is a very necessary part of the market. 
If am afraid this is about to become technical and bore many...Open quaters....Nope not a matter of taste. The open quaters as you call them went out in top tailoring houses in the 1950's and before. It became an educational issue for tailors post war. If you look at all of the old pre war suits they all fell away,. This is because they were all based from frock coats. The modern suit to which Beu Brummel has been attributed to influencing used to be called the 3 seamer....
Hi Emptym could we see something in the technical threads about straightening and crookening of a jacket. This is most probably the most important thing with fitting, historically very debated in the old cutter and tailor mag's. Any jacket pattern maker or budding cutter/tailor should aquire this knowledge. I am amazed that this has not been mentioned as yet. If it has apologies and would love to be directed to it to view other opinions on this regards Brendon 
Clever work with the slanting cuffs despos, I am going to try and figure this out over the next few days. I am not betting on myself but I can think of a few portly fellows this would have been handy for. Brendon
Hi Luddite had a look at the cloth you chose today 1315 from the T F bunch. Yes 2 by 2 which is good, Milled finish which really means it is more of a winter suit. 310 g which you can wear in Auckland except for the hottest month or 2. I'm glad this Doran and Doran is natures gentleman as described by another post.  If the suit is a bespoke suit here is how it all works, and whilst I won't be unkind there is a weakness here if am to be honest with you, Made to...
Hi Despos good thread thanks for putting this out there. you obviously have a thriving business. I am at the stage where I wish to take an apprentice on. I have hesitated as it is a big step, however without one I work long hours. I sell in the upper top end of the market in New Zealand when I can get the price. I have been trained by an ex Savile Row tailor and cutter as a coatmaker. I do this at this stage for the love of my work, however after another 10 years the...
Hi all I have been watching this thread with some interest. can anyone tell me why there is this obsession with canvas fronts on a suit?
Hi All interested how to iron a shirt. know your iron make sure it is clean. Sound straightforward but a lot of domestic irons have black marks etc  Kettle water in the iron spray the shirt all over. Set the iron to cotton and steam for now Sleeves first ...get the seam flat start with the iron , stay away from the seam until you have got the first say 8 inches of the seam flat, then move across to the edge that you will now create with the iron. Continue the...
Hi Luddite Interesting I didn't know any one else had got on to the Thomas Fischer in NZ I have only used it once or twice  so far. I think it is good cloth. I travel to europe each year to get the edge on cloth I have about 6 or 7 books from the Fischer range. The most important thing to look for when buying cloth is to look for the 2 by 2 2 yarns in the warp and weft, which the fischer stuff is. Not all other popular cut length brands are I can't say which but I don't...
Hi Eyoo and anyone else who has a similar looking suit. Shoulders are fine. If you want to see a ridiculous pair of shoulders lapels etc look to that fashion police show on TV. Look at the lines from the back of the shoulders to the should points at the front. Dont know the guys name but he looks like he sent to the drycleaners and they washed it with the horse blanckets. If you want to look feminine then great ....take in the shoulders and keep the coat short. This...
New Posts  All Forums: