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Posts by Brendon

Hi AH agree with A Tailor. When putting a light pad in the right shoulder, you will notice from your photo's that the right sleeve ( your right) is shorter already than the left. This is generally normal, so pad shoulder first , then fit the sleeve. Your ratio will be something like ( not accurate a guess) an inch off the left and 3/8 of the right. Secondly only do up the middle button on the 3 button. I am not sure of tradition for this in the US, however for fit...
Hi Thomas Paine I am not fond of your idea of a good fit though I understand the fashion that influences this and as you pay you have the say. As my helpful contribution I think one of the coats I think is split at the back neck I think, there is a shadow at the centre seam on one of the coats though it is not clear, but could be split, have a look, easily fixed Brendon
Hi David Watts I suggest you take a retired tailor with you to do your article if you also are not going to be another victim to the number of times the media in its many forms including users of this site have been fooled by a smooth talking front of house front-man with a tape measure round his neck , a pair of shears in the window and some Hancock's crayons on the counter, oh and usually they have a dressmakers thimble sitting somewhere because they fail to...
Hi all if you are after comfort in a trouser, then be guided by a tailor. The measurement of the outleg subtract the measurement inleg taking into account the stride balance etc, but most important is have the dress cut in the trouser. ie which way we dress. A trouser with the dress correctly cut will allow your little fellows some good comfort. The rise will then not cut you down the middle in a very sensitive area. A tailor will have a brass end on the tape , perhaps...
Hi Mr Harry fused is ok to be half canvas chest piece. That is pretty normal for a fused garment. The Popradi bloke is on this forum, others will know him. I don't know what his work is like, but he stated he was a tailor taught in England and then taught the cutting in England to become a cutter tailor. Being taught the cutting is the important part. If he was taught in the west end ? then he should be good. He seems to have emphasis on the finish which is also good...
Hi Despos Yes I do the same with fullness to stop any rolling up ( see a lot on factory suits once they have been drycleaned once or twice)as you described and go to greater lengths with the peak lapel . Yes correct I was referring to the wave, something has been pushed by the machine creating a tightness on one side. This could be undone and re done to fix, however Harry that sure is a very healthy voluminous skirt on the jacket to go to the restaurant in... with no...
Hi Despos As you will be aware, one side is machined up the other down. When I was altering the front edge on a MTM about 20 years ago I did it once and an old tailor pointed out the problem and taught me to always place a little fullness at the peak of the lapel on one side and on the curve of the front edge below the other to prevent the drag of the machine. I am using an old Juki straight sewer from probably the 60's or seventies so perhaps there is new technology...
No I agree with Despos generally and particularly about the collar. Re the facing issue however, I am taking this from the side on photo in the first lot.  you can see a wave down the left facing at the lower button position of the coat ( it bends in and away) and as you have taken your photo from that side for the next side on photo's it make the skirt look much bigger than it is from side on. I also asked about the specificity of the garment ie to ride a horse, as...
GBR are you talking yards or metres?, either way this may help. I am a size 42 chest ( 108cm) 54 Italian size 31 1/2 coat length 38 waist, I am no slim jim, and I can get a suit out of 3.2 metres whatever that is is yards. 3.3m and I dont have to think about the lay. I am not being critical, you can only go on what your tailor asks for. However I would hazzard a guess that you tailor in building up his collection of mungo ( left over cloth) for waistcoats. I hope...
Hi Mr Harry You have asked for the opinions from tailors. So here you are. just a couple of things . Initially I thought this was some kind of jacket for mounting  a horse as the coat seemed to have such a skirt to it. Is this meant to be?However on closer examination here is my analysis. The assembly of the front is the problem. The left facing has been put on incorrectly and the weight of the cloth has accentuated this. The coat gives the illusion side on of being...
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