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Posts by Brendon

Both Dormeuil and Scabal are on-sellers of cloth. Scabal has purchased a milll and is bigger. Dormeuil Amadeus used to be a super 100 quality and is no longer so work that out for yourself. You get more bang for your buck if you deal directly with the mills and due to the crap world economy a lot more of the mills are doing cut length to get the business with a surcharge applied. I like cloths that are English because generally you know what you are getting Hope that...
Hi Nysuitaddict I had a look at the guys website, pick something other than Amadeus next time...otherwise he looks like a very good tailor. Is he based in Canada or Manhattan.
Hi NYsuitaddict yes the tailor is the real deal, Mr Popradi, and If I get to NY I will look him up, unfortunately he seems to be attached to the Dormeuil showroom. So if you don't like Dormeuil cloth you don't have much choice. Particularly the Amadeus cloth which used to be a lot nicer than it is now  Otherwise I think you should shout him from the rooftops. Please ask him to describe his cut philosophy cheers Brendon
Hi Nycsuitaddict the ralph L purple is not bespoke, it sound as though you have had a bespoke suit made. I hope you noticed the difference of the fitting etc. The first time you try the suit on it should be at the first Baist stage, ie nothing sewn in no pockets everything loosely sewn with white stitches of basting cotton. Then the next fitting with pockets sewn in. third fitting etc. If this was the process than this is a Bespoke Suit. Or as in America the word...
Hi  A Tailor, very good....sorry to hear of your retirement. Did you train anybody before you hung up your shears? I just noticed a post that someone was choosing navy jackets, is it general in the states to not differentiate between a reefer jacket and a blazer?  Hope your retirement is going well Brendon
Hi Mrala it is called Balance explained, in the 2nd Tailors thread posted by A Tailor. It is simplified whereas a long script is not ad it covers this in easy to understand illustrations.. The point remains take a 3 month holiday in the uk , go and see a west-end London Bespoke tailor and get a suit that flatters your particular figure. Brendon
Hi Mrala the front balance is short regardless of photo.and plains outwards. the curve on the back could be the photo. I had a look at this link from Manton and whilst so of what is said is correct a lot is not attributed correctly. This is not the place for this but what they all miss out on that I have only seen so far on one diagram in the tailors technical threads is the starightening and crookening of coats. There is a post by....A tailor which has simplified...
Hi Oscar the wild congratulations. I know this is an old thread however you have hit the nail on the head, Cut is the important and essential thing so much so that you must have been talking with a west end english tailor. This is exactly the best suit philosophy. I have not seen anyone else on Style Forum with this view cheers  Brendon
Hi Mrala is this photo compressed?. I will try not to be rude but unless the photo is squashed a bit......You have a very difficult figure. The coat is horribly short in the front balance. It is what we would call a real swinger. Refer to post by ... A tailor in the technical tailors thread as it explains 2 of the three or four balances You are upright in one photo and that would contribute toward this, fighting against this you are very round in the top of the back...
Hi Adamha21 .....Tight, don't shake anybodies hand, they are likely to leave with your sleeve. Your arm bulges beyond the shoulder, notice the interruption to the drape of the sleeve cheers Brendon.  
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