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Posts by Brendon

Hi all and particularly to Greenkeeper. apologies if you had a bad experience with Preston and Maurice, No one deserves to feel less than adequate over the phone, particularly when they are offering their business. There is not much you can explain over the phone about Bespoke. As you will know as you say you have had a bespoke suit, it is an experience and a little bit craft and a little bit art.  You will always get better service from a MTM outfitters as they have...
Despos seems like concrete evidence to me re Ronny R. Just for my sanity I will ask to see the letter in September when i visit if I remember. Yes Rangoon didn't seem top shelf enough for a US President. Was holding a piece of Riviera 7525 today in my workroom and the opinion stands a lot of give across the piece and I think you said it, when you described it as not lux.Still as said before can't complain about the price. Something like the old Scabal Tempo would have...
HI Despos  are you sure about that? You may be right? But I was shown a letter in rhe HFW JJ Minnis showroom in Berwick St London from Ron Regan's PA or tailor, can't remember which ( almost a decade ago) after more cloth but wanting for one of his favourite suits as a surprise to him. If you are dealing direct with them they will be able to confirm this better I am sure. I am in London in September and will ask again if I remember that is if they  have new rooms yet?...
Lychyrychy HFW were discontinuing riviera and it was heading out at 17 GB pounds per metre. In my opinion, not the best offering from HFW and they do have a few very respectable horses in the stable and I am not sorry to see it go. They had a suiting which they also discontinued that is going at a discount what is left called crown classic and it makes up beautifully and performs well. 340 g 11 1/2 -12 oz 100's and cashmere.If you decide on spring for you Riviera,get...
JCB 522 glad no offence taken , none intended. Often, off the shelf is not a disadvantaged choice from Made to measure. You are at the mercy of the mtm consultant, and most of them will be shop assistants stepping up to the plate. So maybe just look off the peg in that price range. Open - closed quarters person start reading about balance, some of it in the tech section, 
Hi JCB 522 If you think the suit is mostly a good fit, then ok the problem you have specifically referred to of the coat falling away is the coat is crooked and cannot be fixed by these people. If you wish top know what I think of this then read on, otherwise that is the problem and good luck with further purchases.   this is getting close to the worst I have seen on style forum and that is saying something. I am trying to help so when I say notice how the narrow...
Hi Bobbus 16 on a lot of the slim fit jackets you will see the arm bulging beyond the sleeve head. In my opinion that is a poor fitting shoulder, but seems to be ok for the gods of fashion. The movement where your coat moves up when you lift your sleeve is due to the cut of the sleeve height, or the angle of the sleeve behind the crown, relative to the armhole. Watch a conductor one coat moves up and down and the other less. What can you do about this very common...
Don't need them, again they will not stop the collar curling under slightly. If you or the help press the shirts with a domestic iron. Do the following for cotton shirts regardless of the brand, fused or floating canvas. 1/ Put the iron on steam cotton. Put the iron on the near end of the collar, hold the far end of the colar, move slowly along the collar, pull the other end of the collar whilst doing this, (don't steam your fingers), Do this twice, stand the iron &...
Good thread. I tend to buy English cloth only for the reason that I can be relatively sure of what I am buying. 2 by 2 in the warp and weft and in the super number stated. There is a lot of misinformation generated by suppliers of cloth, and salespeople. Why let the truth get in the way of a good story. 2 articles I read and recommend, one on Paul Grassant Bespoke Tailor in Paris blog re cloth spec's and the other an older article generated by the British government a...
If you iron a shirt collar correctly this will give a better result than any collar stay will ever give. Collar stays metal or plastic will not hide a poorly ironed collar and could almost say they are surplus to requirements. This applies to all brands floating collar or fused. I have posted at some stage I think, on how to iron a shirt on some thread. It is all about the inside and the outside of the curve and the correct removal of steam
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