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Posts by Brendon

Hi all on the gorge   ....with a tailor, " you pay you have the say". If the tailor is obstinate (so worried about his house name) he can always decline. With Made to Measure and off the peg you can see the Gorge. It is aesthetic of course and has no real bearing on the fit. So be your selves with it, all down to taste. The Roll of the lapel is down to something called spring in the collar. This is put in the melton under collar. A lot of the old screen dancers and...
Ernesto  fair call.... From a technical point of view a peak lapel on the high gorge can be  a disaster when you can see it come over from the back of the jacket. There is a limit as to how high you can get gorge and get a good run of the collar. Still most of my clients would have their gorge around there. But most of them have not heard of Style forum too.The young bucks a little higher and the older gentleman I am working on today, much lower but still about an inch...
Hi Henry Carter and Ernesto Gorge height , elaborate please up or down?  Just curious to know what the thoughts are on this. Sorry to put you on the spot. No right or wrong with this, just curious to know what the VOX pop is with this Brendon
Hi Lukejackson are we talking cloth or fabric here?. If cloth definitely not hopsack or nailhead, and closest to a birdseye but the length between the birdseyes is not long enough vertically to be that from the way I see the photo. This looks the same length vertically as diagonally so can't be birdseye. If shirting, I would have to guess a bit of oxford as a rough outsider. Either way if you have a cat,it would pull it to bits. any of those weaves, one drunken night...
Hi I Surg unless one of my clients sticks one up online, then no. Don't know.I make them and wave them goodbye. You buy it ,do what you like with them I suppose. Emotionally,if you like, I always feel a connection with the suits. a lot of my DNA 9 literally ) goes into each suit. I imagine in 30 years it may not feel the same, who knows, let's hope I am well off and happy in my work. Next week I will photograph something I am working on with explanation. Probably an...
Hi ernesto In NZ the outfitters Working Style and Crane Brothers do a nice job on presentation. Very gent club single malt feel about the places. I have a nice workroom but not the budget. When you are on the tools all day 6 days +, service I am afraid is the last thing on your mind. I should not be on here in fact too distracting. I think those two are the go for general stuff. Both unfortunately pretend to do bespoke ( as they all do ) Google Bespoke you can get a...
Hi Henry Carter a two by two 100's is all you probably need for work. Higher numbers for the lavish occasions. For some reason a cloth report I saw stated that the 110's was the most common length of staple, who knows why, perhaps a farmer will know or someone in Huddersfiled. Cloth with an extra twist in the yarn ie any that market themselves as travel cloths will have a dryer handle, ie the opposite of the obsession of staple length. Twist too much and you create a...
Hi The Ernesto just want to be polite, back away nicely with the information that could help me. I do know why I became a bespoke tailor after measuring thousands of made to measure suits over more than a decade. Much happier now. I think you have some good tailors in Australia. The next time you see someone in an overly short coat. Take the photo look at their seat. With a crooked coat, the bum will look big as the person walks away you see the fork of the trouser...
Hi Lennier no not after business from you, and perhaps you are right if i was vying for your custom but that is not the case, however are trying to find someone I would like to work with and offered any assistance in return as my efforts have not born much fruit.Can of course back everything up I say. Welcome to ask any questions, if I can help,  Sweeping yes, but all true in my experience. I use my actual name and business, no hiding here kind regards Brendon
Hi FXH thanks for reply. Bit small town of me to not put that in. She was in Melbourne Swanston St 3000 postal code. Anne Wilkins. Andersons in London said she was good and the English cut guy stated she was his best apprentice. Bit of a long shot but have tried a lot of other places first many thanks Brendon
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