Historically, the grey label (collection suits) were made in Japan and are fully canvassed, have some hand finishing, often come in nicer fabrics and have a nicer soft shoulder. >$1200 and I would argue not worth it unless it fits perfect off the rack. The white label suits are half canvassed (debatable), made in China and come in a less fine wool. MJ Bale does some of these for 2 for $1000 and some in slightly bolder or nicer wool for $700-800.
4/21/15 at 3:04am