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Posts by FredAstaire1899

 Well, I received one of my two hats. It is neither the $140 300 wpsi or the $25 Cuenca, its somewhere in-between them in quality. Its also the wrong size, I'm a 59, it's marked 58 and is more like a 56-57 in real size. Saying that, its something like the quality of 200-300 panamas in City Hatters. PM if interested. Bob has promised to come good, but I don't know how long it'll take as he's going to stop selling to individuals. In retrospect I should have gone for a...
@Luxire, I have a question about adding pleats. Let's say we start off with a properly fitting flat front trouser. Of course the front and rear rise will be usually be extended for adding pleats.   Say I want to have double pleated trousers, with a 0.5" main pleat and 0.25" side pleat. Referring to my diagram, I believe that A will have to be let out by 1.5".   However, what about B, would it be 1.5" or a little less?  
@HenryCarter, Before you adjust the price of the braces, could you let me know if the maroon and maroon/navy stripe have a gold or silver buckle? Thanks.
 Is this a Gize 45 Egyptian cotton? If so, it's an incredible price. I'm intrigued to compare it to the G&R 140 poplin when I finally send in my new bespoke shirt for replication.
DJs sell Angelus wax and Collonil conditioner for a reasonable price, at least they did the last time I checked. I prefer those products to Saphir tbh. Also, you don't really need brushes, just old cotton cloths and a toothbrush for the welt. 
If you wore tan derbies you could pass for a member of the VPO . Very Austrian look, I love it.
@unsuitable It's something I've been wondering myself.   Say you are going to add two pleats on either side, the larger will have a folded depth of 0.5" and the other 0.25". Therefore, I'm pretty sure that you'd let out the the width of the fronts near the waistband by 3" (but after the pleats are added it won't change the waist). However, I'm not exactly sure how much you'd let out the half front hips, perhaps three quarters of this amount (given that the smaller pleat...
@Anden, in addition to re-positioning the pleats, I think you need to let out the front half hips. You might also consider lengthening the front rise (and maybe the back a little) near the fork/crotch.
 I was about to ask the same question myself. I believe that the default construction is with a light unfused interlining. @Luxire to reduce the roll, is it better to use a thicker unfused interlining, or to fuse the outer fabric along with a light interlining?
The best way I find to soften a black longue suit (purchase from long ago before I knew what I was doing) is with a soft pink shirt, a burgundy tie (grenadine is nice), and a white pocket square (optional).
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