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Posts by emptym

Yep, we definitely welcome custom makers to post pics and discussion of their products and processes.  Marcel Hun, Janne Melkersonne, J.P. Myhre, D.W. Frommer II, and others have done this and been well received.  Only direct solitiation isn't allowed (posting prices, trunk shows, websites, email addresses, etc.).
I had this jacket made last year in large part because of yours.  (You may recognize the scarf too.)  Have had the shoulders softened since that pic by having the wadding removed and the sleeve head and shoulder end recut a bit.  It's uncanvased and unpadded, lined in silk, with four regular front buttons plus a small one one at the top of the lapel so it can be buttoned all the way up.  I'd bought a couple lengths of gray flannel from ATailorsDaughter intending to have...
Oops, sorry I forgot to respond to this.  These must be the "hopsack" ones.  I didn't realize there were three ecru linen pant options.  I thought they were heavier than the ones I had ordered, but I like them a lot.  I'll probably get the "natural" ones too someday.
Apparently that pair was intentionally made with an extra-wide welt.
Thanks Mike.  Interesting that extra wide can be specified and that it would be considered formal.  To me it looks much less refined and thus less formal.  I was at the SF Alden store a week or so ago and most shoes had welts about that wide.  It's kept me from purchasing Aldens in the past several years. Yep, that's the unlined version.  
Oops.  That last one should have said "w/o" a tie, not w/.  Hmm, it surprises me that you think most RTW has low button stances, as the general trend for the past 5-7 years has been high button stances.   Re. the first pic, there are two problems that haven't been mentioned:  The buttons are too closely spaced and the top button is above the lapel roll.  This makes it look like a 4 roll 3 with the bottom button missing.  The second pic looks much better, but if you want to...
Ventile's pure cotton, extra-long staple fibers, woven tightly.  A lot of people prefer it to Gore-Tex, etc., but it doesn't seem to be quite as waterproof.  The big adv. to me, is that it should get better with age, while Gore-Tex and other things don't.  Was developed for the British military. There's different weights and this one is the heaviest.  
I have several shirts with the standard Luxire spread collar and I like it a lot.  Lightly fused for wear w/ suit, unfused for wear w/ sport coat and tie, unlined for w/o a tie.   Also, these ecru linen pants and Ventile came in today:       Both are perfectly well made.  The linen pants are pretty heavy.  Would make a great suit, or shorts.  Hmm...     The jacket was made w/ the double lapped felled seams Ventile specifies, plus we added an internal cape to...
Ouch.  I was just complaining about how far the welt sticks out from the shoe in another thread and this pic demonstrates it so clearly.  Here's how they used to be:
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