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Posts by Gruto

Quote: Originally Posted by Manton If muslin is necessary for bespoke, then Geneva isn't bespoke either. Nor, I would guess, are any of the London makers. Muslin is not necessary, I guess. You can do a fitting in different types of cloth. It depends on the shirtmaker.
Well, I don't think that is fair to the shirt makers who actually do a proper fitting to call H&K and rest bespoke.
Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria Do H&K make bespoke shirts anymore? I thought it was more MTM-ish these days. - B It's MTM-ish. They will measure you, and make the shirts after checking that the first shirt is okay. They don't do a proper fitting.
I visited John Lobb, St. James Street, a couple of weeks ago. A few fresh photos from there: You'll find more photos at Stiljournalen:
I've made a short interview with Bernhard Roetzel for As many of you will know, Bernhard Roetzel is the author of Gentleman, one of the classic books on timeless dressing. Here's an English version of the interview. I hope that you'll enjoy it. How do you look at the difference between Italian and English style? In Italy style in menswear has the purpose to make a man look elegant and attractive. The English dress in a way that makes them look...
Quote: Originally Posted by hws Look of the jacket is boxy shapeless sack on upper body. A jacket doesn't have to be slim fit to fit well
Quote: Originally Posted by Will All shirtings are defined by thread count. Egyptian and Sea Island get their reputation from the quality of the thread itself. Will, maybe I misunderstand what you write, but shirt numbers like 120 and 140 are related to the number of threads of 840 yards that can be spun from a pund of cotton. In other words, shirt numbers are a measure of cotton fiber fineness.
I got shirts from Burgos. The fit is excellent. The handwork is very fine. What I like most is the cut of the buttom of the shirt. The styling is the most elegant that I have ever seen: I am not completly satisfied with the collar. But I guess it can be improved. The other problem is more severe: The stitches arund shoulder-sleeves tend to losen. The dark side of handsewn shirts ...
Quote: Originally Posted by smartcashmere was alfred a dandy? was the stylishness obvious when his films came out? were most films of the era similar in style/ clothing or were his unique? That's a lot of big questions. Basically, he had attention to details and knew how important they were to create an illusion.
In Firenze there's Saskia Wittmer too: She is trained at Stefano Bemer and Klemann in Hamburg. I guess she knows the craft very well, but I liked the finish of Bemer's shoes more. By the way, most of the bespoke shoes in Florence are made by Japanese. They go there to learn the craft and some of them stay.
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