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Posts by Gruto

The 5 most valuable contributors to the online discussion of classic menswear style and its crafts for the last 10 years The answer will be subjective, clearly. On the other hand, I believe we can agree on some mega stars. I have no doubt about three of them, in alphabetical order: Manton - for his unique capability to communicate specific standards, customs and rules from the universe of the suit Michael Alden - for his entertaining anecdotes, stories, idiosyncrasies...
Yes, some RTW makers will do handwelting, but how many will apply the original machine/goodyear welting?
Do we still have makers of RTW shoes, who apply the original goodyear welting instead of "gemming"? I believe I once read that Weston was using it, but I haven't been able to verify it.
He isn't comfortable with the camera. With these street shots our relation to the camera has a huge impact on the result. The clothing is less important than we think for the succes of a dress. Try comparing Flusser with Nick Wooster: http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/2012/06/28/sports-jacket-shorts/.That said I think the derision of Flusser at SF and LL is way too harsh, however predictable:)
Solution: LSD That said, think less about historic norms, more about what colours delight the eye ... A light-medium grey jacket with light tan trousers, brown shoes, sky blue shirt and grey tie
Well, one of my non-rule rules is don't forget the grey odd jacket, if you like using odd jackets in the city. It will serve you well. But, prefer it in a lighter solid or with a subtle or small scale pattern. Combine it with brown or blue trousers in the right shade (it is all about the shades ...)
It sounds reasonably.If we are willing to go further back in time, The Record of Fashion, another old English tailoring journal, has a more positive view on blue (navy) trousers. Things were different then, of course. Frock coats and cutaways were still around. However, 14th of June 1882 The Record Fashion reflects on "Current Styles" stating:"Gentlemen of the higher classes wear trousers of the straight form [...] Blue trouserings are in favor, and very stylish they are."
Too wrinkled for that.
Navy trousers and white jacket. I like.
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