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Posts by GrensonMan

You dog! What about the Styleforum kickback haha.
I'm not really a fan of the fit. The sleeves appear too long and there is not enough taper from elbow to wrist. If you like the feel of a more relaxed fit then I think the sleeves are okay from shoulder to elbow but after that they need to contour better with your forearm. Something about the collar is off. I think it is laying down too much. Take everything I say with a grain of salt though as I prefer a slimmer cut and that might not be your thing. 
The area in between will be tapered. I'm not sure you can even create an abrupt decrease like you are describing. I have always been told that tailors can control the waist to knee taper and the knee to ankle taper. 
Because of the way pants are designed, you rely on the knee measurement and the ankle opening. This will ultimately determine how much taper there is. I think tailor's hands are a bit tied when trying to adjust taper in between the knee and ankle because when fabric is cut it's basically between two lines. Someone with more knowledge may step in and correct me on this. 
Square shoulder individuals are usually easier to fit as the angle along the traps is less pronounced. You will often hear people mention the yoke as needing modification to accommodate sloping shoulders. Square shoulders fit RTW shirts better in my opinion. 
 Hey GuP, A dropped shoulder would cause the mismatch in sleeve length. Sloping shoulders describes the way the shoulders fall in comparison to the neck. Some people have a straight line from their neck to shoulders along the traps and others like myself have a more pronounced angle. Consequently, sloping shoulders affect were the shirts rests on your back/traps. A characteristic that you will see on shirts worn by someone with sloping shoulders is a crease from armpit to...
Do you guys think my instructions to Luxire are clear? I am sending the shirt in the photo to them for measurements and adding some tweaks.  
I have noticed that my linen shirts lay differently than my cotton shirts. For instance, the chest measurement is the same but lies more loose with the linen shirt. However, I wouldn't tweak the measurement too much. In my opinion, linen should be worn with a more relaxed fit than cotton and I think you will achieve that by simply leaving the measurements the same. 
About to send in a MTM shirt for duplication with several measurement tweaks. I am raising the arm hole height by 15/16" on the fold. Is it better to speak in terms of total measurements or on the fold when providing measurement adjustments?   The same goes for a pair of pants. Say I am reducing the knee from 16.5" to 15.5". Is it better to tell them 0.5" on the fold or 1" total?   Many thanks!
I'm not sure what Proper Cloth costs but it may be worth it as lachyzee mentioned to have another MTM made. I do not have any experience with Proper Cloth but I feel that they could improve quite a bit on this shirt. Both sleeves appear to be too long with the left sleep maybe a touch longer. 
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