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Posts by ultramantaro

for the most part, just brands that SF'ers in general hate.  However most of the people at least in the classic forum are those with a perceived "older" age and therefore won't like fashion forward cuts, or anything slim.
I haven't visited their site for over 2 years and it's clear they have put some marketing weight behind it.  It's completely geared towards to the yuppie crowd, but that's pretty much where most $ will be made unless you are into say, G & H.   I couldn't find the bit about where suits are made.  I remember in the past they have a picture of a nice, clean, white lab coat look of a factory in Shanghai (I would doubt it actually looks like that unless they are heavily...
Supposedly there was a long thread wrt to what lines in Armani suits are canvassed, vs half canvassed, etc.  The pinch test supposedly is a good way to test whether it is, but regardless of the fact if it fits you well you got a great deal.  Black label suits are in general higher quality than Collezioni or EA.
The El Primero movement used in Daytonas back in 90s and early 00s is a reliable and fantastic movement, that is still marketable even after 42 years in history.  Rolex actually detuned this movement from 36K Hz to 28.8K as they didn't feel it was necessary to operate the chronograph to 1/10 of a second, but doing so actually increased the power reserve from ~50 to over 70 hrs.  IMHO this was one of the few where an outsourced movement didn't make the watch any less...
I have the Tangente Datum and because of its thin bezel look, the dial makes the watch looks deceivingly big (comparable to many 40 - 41 mm cases).  I believe w/o the date you lose 2 mm or so (35.5) which is noticeable when compared side by side, but not so when you wear it.    As in probably all general cases, the white dial/black strap will make any watch look more formal.  Light brown will always make it casual and go better with jeans and a t-shirt.  Dark brown is...
Hi All,   In the past I wasn't partial to Brioni because they appeared too conservative.  I've tried on a couple at my local off 5th a week ago and they actually look pretty good and the fabric was pretty good.  Some questions however ...   1 - Do they have different cuts?  The one I tried on appeared to be a classic (tapered below the chest), regular notched lapels and normal sleeves  Will be curious to see if they have a slim cut (I dont' have thick arms so a...
Do Benjamin and 1818 have slimmer cuts?
Yoox always makes anything look terrible, so it's best to see it in person.  The rise is pretty aggressive on the low side, but taht doesn't mean that it's bad unless you absolutely hate this kind of look and prefer the classic type because you arent slim enough to fit in.
Well, that's what Bluefly says:   http://www.bluefly.com/Zegna-Z-Zegna-grey-wool-mohair-blend-2-button-suit-with-flat-front-pants/cat10028/316070501/detail.fly   Can anyone confirm?  With a recent extra 25% off coupon they seem reasonable
Think before you type.  Apparently you don't care for the labor cost of where a particular item is made, but it's well known if you are familiar with the garment industry in HK that most of the operations has now been relocated to Shenzhen's outskirts with cost savings well in the double digits.  The labor cost between a worker in a HK factory vs one in the mainland is close to a factor 1 to 2.5.  This is why many of those operations shut down in the mid 90s.   If what...
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