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Posts by ultramantaro

Hi all,   I just picked up a new suit that's basted - basically the buttons haven't been sewn on the cuffs yet.  I llive in San Carlos and tried two cleaners/tailors in the area who wouldn't be able to do surgeon cuffs - the latter said she can do it by hand but without a buttonhole machine.  I'm not sure if they will be 100% symmetrical since the holes should be punched with a machine first before they are sewn.   With all that said, I would love to give Bob a try,...
Here's a couple of Zegnas i am looking...
I haven't tried it with suspenders but I fear looking like Lumbergh from office space.  It's tough to find a dept that carries a wide range of Canali suits where I'm at (SF Bay Area)  I will spot 18xxx series as you advised if I come across them in the future.  I don't need something ultra slim, but just a tad more waist suppression would be nice.  I've mentioned Paul Smith London as their fit would be typical of what I'm looking at (not Burberry anorexically slim)   On...
I think I picked up the same suit ... it's got a cut label inside (probably an offseason product by one of the dept stores).  Here's how I felt:   1 - It's a great deal for 699.  I needed a black suit for interviews and formal occasions, and by far the most conservative look at my field is achieved with black.  I've got a plaid, prince of wales, and a grey striped flannel suit but none are what I would wear for an interview.   2 - The model is 11xxxx.  I can say it is...
Does anyone know if they do italian collars?  I'm not too much into the button down or spread collars.  Otherwise it's great to have a Made in Japan clothing brand without the exorbitant prices.  Too bad they don't have one in San Francisco.
In general I don't think the sale on Yoox have been as good this year as the same time last year .... must be the economy across the globe (esp in US) doing better ...  The discounts have capped at 50% so far and it's already past new years ...
for the most part, just brands that SF'ers in general hate.  However most of the people at least in the classic forum are those with a perceived "older" age and therefore won't like fashion forward cuts, or anything slim.
I haven't visited their site for over 2 years and it's clear they have put some marketing weight behind it.  It's completely geared towards to the yuppie crowd, but that's pretty much where most $ will be made unless you are into say, G & H.   I couldn't find the bit about where suits are made.  I remember in the past they have a picture of a nice, clean, white lab coat look of a factory in Shanghai (I would doubt it actually looks like that unless they are heavily...
Supposedly there was a long thread wrt to what lines in Armani suits are canvassed, vs half canvassed, etc.  The pinch test supposedly is a good way to test whether it is, but regardless of the fact if it fits you well you got a great deal.  Black label suits are in general higher quality than Collezioni or EA.
The El Primero movement used in Daytonas back in 90s and early 00s is a reliable and fantastic movement, that is still marketable even after 42 years in history.  Rolex actually detuned this movement from 36K Hz to 28.8K as they didn't feel it was necessary to operate the chronograph to 1/10 of a second, but doing so actually increased the power reserve from ~50 to over 70 hrs.  IMHO this was one of the few where an outsourced movement didn't make the watch any less...
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