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Posts by Ivon

Like I posted in a similar thread, YMMV with each parcel. My latest purchase. EGs from jerrybrowne arrived this morning (shipped Monday) no duties. If Cabnada Customs has it you will get it soon, crapshoot on duties though.
Rule 1 for business clothes is you dress for your audience, who are the people you will be doing dog and ponies or meet and greets for.  Overly trendy cut suit looks are right up there with square toed loafers are an indicator of the naive or clueless.  Business wear is tribal dress, try to look the part.  BB or Samuealson might be your best bet at sale time.  Try poking around lesser known stores that carry Samuelson or Coppley, like Tello or Perry's, you might get...
The dedicated greeter seems to be standard these days, you cna safely politely ignore them, they are mostly indifferent to all customers anyway.  YMMV with SAs though, I had one ot those American Express moments this week, wandered in, dressed to be ignored, I did feel the condescending glances from the younger SAs and the snarky twinks that work the douchey brand sub boutiques like Tom Ford,  Ended up buying a Zegna SC from one of the older SAs who had seen me around in...
I think it's a crapshoot with duties and taxes. I bought NIB Lobbs off the B/S with $600 as the listed value, they reassessed them higher and I got hit with an additional $204, even though I PAID $600 for the shoes. One week later a pair of G&G I had on reserve from Bespoke England arrived, I paid full pop and no duties. YMMV with every parcel, but over the years, I'd estimate I got dinged maybe 10% of the time.
Surgeon's cuff and functional lapel buttonholes are usually associated with bespoke or high end MTM, but has become much more common these days on cheap RTW suits by guys trying too hard. Recently I did notice surgeon's cuffs on a fellow's suit, it was a cheap suit from either BR or Club Monaco, I almost laughed in front of him, pimping out a beater suit. Money would have been better spent moving up the quality chain to go from BR/Club Monaco crap to a canvassed suit...
Hahaha., I remember the tv commercials for that when I was a kid, it came with self defense instructions for fending the ladies off.
I'm curious too, they sell them at Stollery's where I live, the aren't cheap approx $1800. Didn't give them a pinch test, but they have a classic British sensibility to them. Fabric quality didn't seem to be at the Canali/Zegna level but seemed okay, metallic silver lining was a bit much.
Forget the smug self serving bs from the narcissistic wankers, in this situation, you take one for the team, be is family. Do the best you can with what you get, but it is THEIR day, not yours. All eyes will be on the groom, not you. It's like being in a strip joint, if you aren't nekkid, nobody notices or cares. The tux is out of your control, other guys will be wearing the same fugly outfit, but you aren't the groom. It may offend your sartorial sensibities, but...
Samuelson makes a very classic one, OP says he works out so a skinny cut might be an issue, Zegna Milano fits me like a glove, but when I tried a Z Zegna in the same size, it was not even close. Make sure it fits the chest and shoulders and the length is good. A tailor can clean up the waist w/o too much effort if a bit of waist suppression is desired.
Three inches is a lot. Did you buy it used? All you have to do is take it to a decent tailors and ask if there is room to lengthen the sleeve. The traditional length for suit sleeves is up to the wrist bone. Sometimes you may need to reposition buttons if you lengthen/shorten sleeves. Surgeons cuffs can make sleeve work tricky. If the tailors says you can't extend it to workable, then send it back.
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