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Posts by RDiaz

But what I wonder is if there's a way to make such a close fitting jacket comfortable, which there might be....not counting other fit issues, of course, which shouldn't be present on a decent bespoke garment.
I thought some extra cloth at certain points like the chest, together with high armholes and a somewhat fuller sleeve cap were good to allow ease of movement. Is this really not necessary?
A solid blue shirt would've been hundreds of times better, but there isn't a lot of time for laundry when you're moving to a new home and gotta go to work...       mtm jacket rushmore shirt e.g. cappelli madder tie e.g. cappelli madder square mtm trousers (heavy 560g flannel) carmina half brogues nikon perspective distortion
Maybe a hard 3 button can be turned into a 3 roll 2, but it would involve re-making the collar, and I guess modifying the canvas. Probably not worth it. Some hard 3 button jackets look nice with only the middle button done, and they tend to roll naturally to that button over time...
 I know perfectly who you are talking about  I think his tuxedo by Calvo de Mora turned out quite well, actually, but that's about it. I was about to try Langa (Joaquín Fernández is the actual tailor), but no longer have money for it - maybe that's a blessing. Some garments I've seen from him actually look quite good to my eyes, but not the stuff for the blogger you were talking about - that looks a bit awkward, to be honest; although Joaquín himself (whom I met some...
Jacket has massive shoulders, vintage find. Will fix when I have the money and lose weight. It's very flattering for my current body shape, but makes my head look very small.       Canali vintage jacket (with enamelled buttons sewn on by myself) Rushmore shirt E.G. Cappelli madder tie Drake's wool square Emidio Tucci flannel trou Carmina wingtips
Yul Winner
Dunno, it looks balanced to me, Pliny. Certainly not low enough to make it look dated. I know the trend right now is a sky high gorge, but I think something a bit lower works on most body types.
 Thanks Pliny! It's from Holland & Sherry's Sherry Tweed book. And on AAS' gorge, I believe it's absolutely fine, perfectly balanced. It'd need to be quite lower to date the jacket. I'm wearing a vintage Canali DB today where the gorge is much lower (it's also 6x1)
I knew the iGent topic was going to come out. Well, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a structured coat and most of my coats are structured. But we are talking about overly structured with old school spanish tailoring. There are, of course, tailors who can do better here.  Thanks a lot for your reply. I actually hate Larrainzar, but Calvo de Mora does a nice work in my opinion (some people around the place I work at wear suits made by him, and they look good). Still...
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