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Posts by cropknox

Hello,   If anyone has copies of Apparel Arts quarterly publications they would like to sell, please feel free to message me.  I'm looking to buy any editions from the 1931-1957 runs.  I am willing to pay fair market prices based on age, condition, completeness, subject matter, and how many of the fabric swatches are intact.   Thanks!
Given the opportunity, I always opt for made to measure because I like the flexibility of cloth and styling it allows me. I had a suit made by Spoon Tailor and am quite pleased with it in terms of fit and workmanship.   Compared to the Brooks Brothers 1818 line, a suit from Spoon Tailor is going to a lot more hand finishing work. The majority of coats in the 1818 line are fused or half-canvased (e.g., half fused); Spoon will do a full canvased jacket for $50. Lastly,...
As an opposite opinion, brown shoes are really the better choice for gray suits. Generally speaking about 50% of guys who wear suits don't know enough to notice and the 50% who do, will appreciate that you're not another putz who thinks your black square toe slip-ons match everything . . . .
  +1 many a high end mens retailer has tuned me off and lost sales from me this way . . . 
Edward Sexton was Tommy Nutter's cutter when he had his Savile Row shop. Sexton, who's an Anderson & Sheppard trained tailor, is still working in London where he is the proprietor of his own shop.  Sexton's house cut is a very shape, trim, classically English cut.   My understanding of how Nutter's worked was Tommy conceived of wild designs and Edward executed the actual garment.
Why on Earth would you presume they substitute fabric? I have really no reason to doubt thier honesty. Spoon is very well respected in younger SF Finiancial District/Downtown circles. During my first fitting, Andrew made a point to show me the LP selvage marking and factory tag.As to whether their workshop is inland or on the coast, I don't really know. Everyone at Spoon speaks Cantonese with pronounced Hong Kong accent for whatever that's worth.
It's good you started this thread because, in all honesty, both the questions you asked show you very unprepared for interviews.   A previous poster made a very good analogy that comparing VCs to PE is like comparing a dentists the brain surgeons. In the simplest terms, VC use a shotgun approach, making many, many very small bets (read: $10K - $100K per round); PE funds make very, very big bets (read: deals greater than $20 million, although underwriting criteria varies...
Yeah, small shops tend not to carry much inventory, especially the higher end stuff . . . it basically comes with the territory when you get into the world of custom made clothing. Shops like Spoon Tailors are basically a cottage industry. You just have to patient. The suiting selected had to be ordered too, which took two - three weeks.   I had my first fitting last week and I was impressed. I spoke at length with Andrew and the cutter (Andrew and Kevin's father I...
Ticket pockets on patch pocket sport coats were fairly common in the 1950s.
I'm not a devote of Oxxford or anything, so take this with a grain of salt, but for what it's worth . . .   Oxxford is known for two things: (1) very high quality; (2) very conservative styling (read: boxy old guy/politician cuts). The 1220 line is an attempt to capture a new, younger clientele. As part of this initiative, the1220 line has a lower price point -- hence less hand finishing -- and a slimmer cut.   That said, looking at those comparative measurements...
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