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Posts by j ingevaldsson

Okay thanks for explaining, now I understand the difference between the different ways to make the holdfast in the leather. Seems like Antonio is onto something really good here then.Regarding the use of Goodyear, I know this has been discussed before, don't remember how it is exactly but hand welted in Italy is called something like "Goodyear Fatte a mano", so that's why they often call hand welted for Handmade Goodyear or something like that when writing in English....
Also curious what's the difference between the old method which I think is called cut-and-turn if I remember correctly and this that Antonio is doing? I just thought this was a version of that. Looks kind of like a mix between two of JM Weston's insoles (second and forth on the pic) who also don't use gemming on some shoes still:Either way, it seems like a really good solution. Of course more costly insole material, but since he cut the holdfast by machine it must still be...
Yeah I can see that, thought it might be even harder to do on a finished shoe instead of a loose upper.Yeah, especially the bottom eyelets must be tricky.
^^^ Regarding the last pages of discussion about rubber soles, much have already been said, but thought I'd add a bit. Basically no one fully hand stitch a rubber sole. When you put an awl through rubber and remove it, the rubber immediately closes up, unlike leather where you then have an open hole to pull the needle and thread through. This makes it very hard to hand stitch rubber soles, and awls can break and needles get damaged. With proper glue and (for rubber soles...
^^^That's interesting, never thought about Bestetti's solution before and that you can do it like that. Went back and checked pics of one of my pairs being made and saw it: I know that on one shoe there was some excess lining left down in the bottom of the opening of the facings, so that might be one con with that solution, that it can be a bit of a struggle to get it neat there.
My view of the Japanese vs European (owning a couple of Japanese makers and a few European, seen and handled quite a lot of brands from both worlds IRL, and studied a lot of pics from all over) is that yes, several Japanese makers have a very high level of their work, but as others note, there are also many Japanese that don't have the same refinement. Where they have been trained likely has a lot to do with this, and the view of things there, but also the personalities of...
Stefan: That's amazing service for sure! I like this new toe shape better toe, balances the rest of the quite long shoe and slim waist and heel better.
 I've been given tracking-id in some cases at least, but I did most of my correspondence with Roxana and I believe she might think more about that sort of thing than the rest of the family :)
 At least in my cases (living in Europe) they have sent the shoes using the Austrian Post, and they are very slow. Been at least a week to get them from Vienna up to Sweden every time. Just so you know.
 Yeah delicate is a good word to describe them.  Cheers!   Really nice pair! From the Paris branch I suppose?
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