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Posts by chogall

 Heel to ball fitting is good but toe space/length too short.  Width is good, but girth a bit to small. I've seen quite a few vintage/used bespoke shoes, physically or in pictures.  Creasing/curled up gimping? Sure.  But never seen any creasing on cap toes on the broguing or in front of the broguing.  Then again, thats just my small sample of observations.
Don't know what's the best solution here, extending toe stiffeners, decreasing toe cap length, increasing last length for more toe spaces, or some cocktail of things.Shit happens is just a more casual way to describe lowered QA standards.Tried hammer it back but the pegs came loose again. Will use super glue on pegs this time around. For the one that fell off completely maybe I'll use toothpicks instead, just to fill the space. lol.
It's value-er.
Creasing at the toe caps instead of vamp.p.s., Saint Crispins toe is shorter than usual IME. I remember someone making comment where there's less toe space because it's more 'fitted'.p.s.s., I asked for 9G and was fitted 8.5G with adjustments. Arch fits fine. Could use more toe length. IME the toe fit is as important as heel to ball fit.
Quote: Less desired leather cuts sometimes slip through their QC for some pairs I've seen. Build quality seems to be declining with the pegs falling out for my latest pair. For cap toes, the toe stiffener is shorter than toe cap, causing creasing at the toe cap. Fitting has a lot left to be desired and I absolutely recommend going for trial shoes. Still well built shoes with good service.
 1. There are lower priced hand welted shoes out there.  Meermin being one of them. 2. There are retail companies doing last adjustments, Saint Crispins being one of them.  And their key ingredient isn't better-made lasts but physical trunk shows for fitting and/or measuring sessions. If we marry 1 and 2, and replace the fitter (most probably not shoemakers for these retail operations) with 3D scanning machine+algorithm, viola, we get affordable and good fitting...
In summary. Me: how to make it happen, and can it be done economically. pB: it hasn't happened yet. DWFII: impossible, kills the craft, promotes mediocrity, and displaces shoemakers.
 Why can't bespoke be for the masses?  And if build on the same construction specification, how do you determine it to be lesser quality? We all learn from imitations; and at this day and age, those who are imitating are surpassing the imitated. 
Quote: @traverscao reminded me of Dave Coppeland when he first appear on the forum; their mildly mannered passive aggressive posting styles are eerily similar.  But then I realized they were probably not the same guy.  Other than that, I only called him out on his sometimes eccentric if not horrible shoe and shoe care recommendations, including grease on leather, dissing Corthay, etc.  Despite rarely acknowledging his recommendation being awful sometimes, @traverscao was a...
He did wear his new Pitti approved sartorial cycling tights.
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