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Posts by chogall

Interesting. I find loafers is better with either square waist or blind welt all around. A blind welt waist loafer is kinda meh.
At least pB's and mine Saint Crispins went back for factory resole over the past year.
 AP?
Pump stitch is not blind welted; it's Blake stitch done by hand.
 It should be easy to draw parallel from their industry in general for the margin range.  For example, both Wolverine World Wide and Sketchers have gross margin of around 40%.  King of el cheapo shoes, Crocs, has GM of around 50%, mostly due to their very low cost of outsourced manufacturing.  Direct subsidiary sales margin is usually 45% and wholesale is usually less than 40%. Luxury footwear should have slightly higher margins.  Even the top luxury house, Hermes, has...
The number makes sense and sounds similar to other retail manufacturing operations. But it sounds like you are not a business or a numbers person. Besides, you must be smoking some putrid stuff if you believe EG is for the riches. Maybe visiting the EG thread for details. And EG is not Patek of the shoe world.
Chisel toes have less roomy IME. And gotta take into account how different toe patterns impacts the fit, e.g., cap toes most constraining, than wingtips, then plain toes without any additional toe leather pieces.
What's the difference between insole and outsole leathers?  Can those JR outsoles be used for insoles?
Making shoes and running a business are two different things. Maximizing current profit isn't always the goal for business owners. The trend right now is for bespoke makers to branch into RTW business to lever up their brand. See: Cleverthy, Corthay, Foster & Sons, Gaziano & Girling, and a few Japanese makers.
The business model could be flawed but every guy in the channel has to bear the inventory and store marketing risk and be compensated for it. Shoe manufacturers enjoys keeping their utilization high and book revenues on a sell-in basis. On the other hand, Internet distributed guys are booking sales on a sell-through basis and bearing the risk of factory utilization, demand generation, inventory, etc. All in all both business model are much similar in term of value...
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