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Posts by chogall

1. Good. So you are acknoledeging that GYW needs additional 1-2 steps compare to BR. In manufacturing, that is called complications. 2. That is called throughput. Not complication. You can either increase throughout by adding bandwidth, I.e., have 200 shoemakers hand welting 5 pairs of shoes per day to achieve the same 1000 pairs per day through put as 2 station operators running the gemming and welt stitching machines. And that is assuming all 200 makers are making the...
1. GYW is a more complicated process vs BLake/BR as I've stated previously. 2. Even the large HW operations churns out much less pairs of shoes compare to small GYW. GYW is necessary for scale. Vass produces like what, 1k per month? And JLP bespoke produces like 1k per year? And C&J makes like what, 100k per year? BStripe probably knows better about the numbers. 3. Gemming is replaced at factory recrafting with some manufacturers so that's not even an issue. 4....
I suspect you speak no more than 2 languages with native fluency.On one hand you are correct. On the other it's better to understand and to respect other cultures.
Sovereign wealth funds.Yes other central banks own US stocks.
GY machinery is expensive. And requires more than just a simple Blake stitcher. When the Italians outsource shoemaking to Asia it's all Blake stitched as it only requires one stitching machine and a buffer.Blake is low capex and small footprint thus popular in non UK/US countries. HW was maintained in some parts of the world because family workshops cannot afford to buy Blake machines...Yeah Italians call HW as GY by hand. But I guess they, in addition to the Japanese,...
Unless they punched so many holes on the welt that it risks being split in half... And how many cobblers diligently sewn outsole to attempt aligning new stitching with existing holes?
Conditioner works as well.Double sole shoes aren't designed to be very flexible initially and takes much longer time to break-in.But they sure are very durable!!Also, metal toe taps works wonders for dibble leather sole. Double sole shoes have accelerated toe wear due to the rocking motion of thick outsoles.
Hey, you are the one who said "he doesn't know any better" and called the "dumbing down" of shoemakers despite Japan is probably the most competitive market for bespoke shoemaking let along a market full of shoemakers whom arguably makes better shoes than their traditional UK predecessors.
Interesting! That seems to be a good technique!Do you re-shape your awl so they can get into the right angle? I would imaging typical awl doesn't have enough angle to pierce through holdfast if insole is carved this way.
Not only that, you only need one special machine for Blake stitching as oppose to 3+ machines for GYW. Gemming, welting, cork fillet, in addition to outsole stitcher and others.Blake rapid is lower sunk cost than GYW as well.GYW is much more capex intensive contrary to what some shoemaker/shoe repair expert believe.
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