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Posts by VRaivio

j ingevaldsson, you work for Italigente these days...I'm not sure if the mods will like you to share their company info or product photos in the future, given that you're not an affiliate vendor and all. We'll, the ways of the mods are mysterious and whimsical. We'll see how it goes. Anyhow, I like the patina painting on this pair! It's a vivid mix of browns.
Yes, the Dover by Edward Green is a copy...or a version, if you may, of the archetypal Norwegian split-toe derby originally made by Norwegian fishermen in the 1800s. A nickname for the first ones was aurlandskoen. I haven't found info of the very first maker, but likely some fisherman had enough free time to join some hides together, and British tourists took to the shoes on their fishing trips up North, and brought some back to the UK. Now, what makes the Dover unique is...
...while we're going back in history, June Swann's peerless shoe history book titled Shoes confirms that the Chelsea boot (with its handy elastic sides) was invented in 1837 by J. Sparkes-Hall, who later received a royal warrant as the shoemaker to Queen Victoria. Likely they were wholecuts as well. Apparently the elastic made the boots very quick when most women's models had 10 or more lace hooks. Chelseas were also easy to pull on or off even when middle-aged ankles...
Kielman makes a nice, clean shoe...I only wish their lasts were more contoured or close-fitting around the instep.
Nicholas, you'll also enjoy a nice dose of bovine growth hormones with your average 'murican steak. I'll take that British version any day. Some nice lobster from Maine or Alaska would be so much better. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bovine_somatotropin
I haven't opened the vintage pairs, so I don't know if they had shanks. I bought the pars just to see if the quality was there and then sold them onwards. A silly goal, but hey, A-E's old pairs are not readily available in my neck of the world.Likely someone on the Fedora Lounge forum will know. They are vintage nuts.
I have a nice, in-depth interview with Hiro on my blog from some time ago. Evidently he was among the first Japanese bespoke shoemakers of the current generation, setting up shop in 1999. Today there must be dozens of artisans all around the islands, but not so around a decade ago. There may just be too many stores for all of them to survive, having shoes made is so much more expensive than getting something off the shelf.
Fred G. Unn, the main reason for not using a shank, even on dressy pairs or boots, is speed. The shank is against the grain on very soft moccasins, but commonplace on other models. As A-E doesn't use it, they can skip a step and finish more shoes each hour. The whole factory is about speed thse days, the famous Allen-Edmonds quality is long-gone. I've handled their vintage pairs. They were something else.
Well, the company did buy that shirt factory that makes Cleeve of London-tagged items for Drake's alone, and loans must be paid back somehow. There are always sales, you know, and you'll only have to wait.
dahl5yankees, it's the first classic style book for men up here in Finland. Flusser and Boyer readers will get an idea of the contents, though I did search for and buy other thorough reference books while writing mine. Fingers crossed it will get translated one day. Well, that special Lidfort pair is still up for grabs in size 42EU...
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