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Posts by VRaivio

In time the shell ripples may grow deeper or more pronounced if your gait is springy or the shoe trees too low. These harmonica-like ripples are more visible than regular calf creases, making the pair less smart. Perhaps this is why shell has never been as popular suit garb among grandees.
Despos, because I couldn't find an answer from my reference books or by searching online. One tailor didn't respond to my question by email, the other was OK with cloth buttons. If the truth(TM) cannot be found from this Whnay's Good Taste Thread(TM), then it does not exist. Each detail has semantics, and knowing them all is intriguing. This is why I've staid on SF.
Mimo, I had a total shoe collection clearout about two years ago when I lurked on SF under a different username. I remember reading somewhere about an Italian count whose shoe collection counted 250 -- all from John Lobb Ltd., so my passion is small-time dabbling still.
Well, I had this in mind when I first started curating (or hoarding, whatever) shüüs, but before I could write about the finer points I had to learn as much about fine footwear as I could. This meant buying as many used pairs from as many makers as I could because trying a pair on in store is different from owning one. Now that my range (or collection, whatevs) has much, I can be more picky and I truly know what I want. I call it shuzen. I hope others will find the same...
On another note, although seen in a ladies' jacket, here's a beautiful tweed:
Moleskin was traditionally a working man's humble, warm, strong and comfy cloth, so a moleskin suit is a peculiar mix, perhaps in line with corduroy suits. Not business formal, but not truly casual either. An off-time suit, then, but not really worn by a lot of guys. David, who commissions these from you?
...actually, I do have a question for this official Good Taste Thread. Cloth-covered jacket buttons: caddish, effected, OK, swell?
I just can't get over how clean anything made by one of the famed Parisian tailors looks. To be sure, the Brits and Italian also make fine custom wonders, but I've yet to see as consistently clean lines as by the French. I wonder how much The Group of Five was influenced by haute couture's hyper perfectionism. This thread blows minds like the Japanese bespoke shuu thread does.
I cannot believe I've missed this! Scheer has finally joined Facebook and shared hundreds of photos of their odd-looking pairs. Those vertical heelcups look mighty strange to my eyes, but I'll let you have a look: https://www.facebook.com/Scheer7Generationen
^Most likely it is. I haven't owned or handled Shinki shell shuus, but I've read that their horse's ass is thinner than Horween's, and not quite as shiny but with more colours. The Japanese shoemakers' thread has many photos if you've the time to read through the whole shebang. j ingevaldsson, if these Vass Dainite soles are machine-sewn, how do you explain the uneven stitch size and shape? Even St. Crispin's machine-cranked soles have tidy stitches.
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