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Posts by VRaivio

...because I have a long loath/hate relationship with Allen-Edmonds. They claim to be one of the greatest American shoe factories when in truth they've been speeding up the production process and cutting down the quality of their pairs with each decade. I could go on&on about the flaws but the usual ones are commonly listed on Styleforum: gaping leather around the ankles, torn seams, torn thread, no shank for support, poorest areas of the hide used as well, upper leather...
Chogall, these look very Bestetti to me, you might want to try him out.
I am sorry, Leaves, I feel the boots have failed: the leather looks rough with those large scales and, judging by the many seams, they've been pieced together from spare hides. The last and sole look fine. Likely this model from first-grade hides would have cost double the end sum, so I understand your decisions.
...well, you know, he could tell you but then he'd have to kill you as well, and take all of your shoes. Pimpin' vintage shoes ain't easy.
Cheaney's Imperial line is very underrated here on Styleforum. I wrote a piece on it a few years ago, and the leather and finishing was very good, fit very snug, price-quality deal excellent.
Chogall, I'm familiar with this method through what I've read about Lobb Ltd., what I've seen in the Meccariello thread, and various style sites. I've never tried the route but I know it's possible with some shoemakers, it's best to ask from them before deciding on the company. It's similar to what the guys on The London Lounge forum do: first they get the cloth, then they pop in at their tailor of choice. Crocogator is a bit different because the hides alone are very...
Here's a little tip: you may save a nice chunk of money by first buying a great pair of crocogator hides, and then searching for a shoe company to turn them into wearable art. Many companies have markups for "premium" leathers, and these can be avoided if the customer already has the material. Not all welcome external sources, though.
You cannot: the welt is wide and the last is too voluminous for pressed trous, let alone suits. What you would need is a dress boot as they have contoured lasts, slim soles, and narrow welts that combine to make the boot look like a dress shoe with a shaft. Edward Green's model Shannon is likely the best-known example, it's a clean Balmoral boot. This is why shoemakers design, make, and offer boots for leisure and other boots for the office.
Haven't you heard? Out in the (forum) street they call it Meermin Lottery -- you never know what you gonna get!
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