semperexcelcius What is it that you hope to have in your shirts? For them to last a long time? To have access to a wide selection of fabrics? For them to fit you in a particular way? A certain kind of collar shape or construction? My advice is to think about those things first. There is no "best" shirtmaker or tailor or shoemaker or whatever.
Can look ok when worn with a coat because it basically recreates the shape of a spread collar and usually you have to look pretty hard to see the unused buttons underneath the collar. Worn without a jacket, invariably looks like shit Imho.