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Posts by unbelragazzo

Others would know better than me, but I think manufacturers/brands share some of the blame.
Tailors tend to champion the distinctive elements of their system as uniquely capable of producing an acceptable product, for both good reasons and bad.
My approach is generally to trust the house style. House style doesn't mean one particular combination of styling options. For instance, Formosa does a spalla camicia and a normal shoulder. Usually they do a normal shoulder in suits and a spalla camicia on sportcoats, but it's not a big deal to put a spalla camicia on a suit or whatever. Pressing the roll a little higher is not that big a deal, nor is widening the lapel, although already you're doing your own thing a bit...
I think lapel width is very close to the RTW, if not exactly the same. I might try a 3r2.5 on a future order
Stylistically pretty much the same. Once this is done I'll do a comparison between the RTW and bespoke on me.
Still bummed I couldn't get a tiger pose out of Kyle. Wasn't for lack of trying.
It's falling very cleanly on the chest and shoulders if that's the case. You might be able to find a spot on the inside of the front of the jacket where you can see or feel inside to the guts of the jacket. That would give you an idea what's in there.
Is that jacket actually unstructured or does it just not have shoulder padding? I would guess it still has a canvas
You mean the way the lapels belly or that they're pressed right to the button? I like bellied lapels but they look better wider IMHO. And particularly good on peak lapels.
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