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Posts by Ttailor

How much? Well, until the problem goes away?If you stand with hip forward and calves protruding beyond the buttocks, the pattern needs much work. It is a slightly more complex fix than just letting out the calves, though that may help a bit. How much can be let out depends on how much seam allowance has been left on the inseam and outseam.
First you need good measurements and photos to show the shape of the body.You can then determine where the waist suppression should happen. There are limitations in a shirt as to how much manipulation you an achieve. For prominent blades or pecs, I would dart out my pattern below the chest line in alignment with the prominent area of the body and open up into the armhole or into the yoke seam at the back.You cannot dart out huge amounts because you still need enough fabric...
I agree, front darts are not a great look on a man's shirt! Back darts ok. With a full chest/pecs, you are going to get excess fabric below the fullest part of the chest and there are not many options for change through an online ordering system.
An explanation of why, not how to fix, sorry.In a nutshell, a certain amount of fabric is needed to go around the chest and a shirt pattern has limited areas in which to reduce that amount at the waist. If you have prominent pecs or trapezius, you will notice these drag lines. The side seams can only reduce the size at the waist to a point, because the reduction needs to occur in alignment with the prominent areas of the body. That is why darts below the blade in the back...
It is difficult to see exactly what is going on as the photos are dark.It looks like the pockets are set rather high.The back is a mess and letting out the hips will not help it. The back balance looks long, and if you truly have an 11 inch drop, it appears that much of the jacket shaping needs to occur below the blades in the back. It is a complicated bit of pattern manipulation to deal with. Unlikely to be achieved in an already finished jacket.
Did you try on a number of samples? Sorry I am not familiar with the Suit Supply decision making process.If it makes any difference, being persuaded by sales associates is a pain. I am not sure how much knowledge these sales associates have in order to advise for good fit or for choosing something that is truly flattering rather than what is "in fashion".I suspect that they know or understand next to nothing about tailoring or patternmaking in order to actually help...
Too tight. You can see in the profile photos where exactly the problem lies. It causes the fit to be too snug at the lower buttock area and contributes to the fabric pulling towards the calves, and the lower leg hanging strangley. A bit more width over the calves wouldn't hurt either. They would look better if they were a bit looser and if the leg was a bit more proportionate to your overall size.I bet the pockets bow open as well. Make sure your meaurements are correct,...
Not sure how you would communicate all this to a MTM company but do send them a photo.You have a compound issue going on in the back.A sloping shoulder adjustment on its own is inadequate because you have very prominent blades as well.If anyone was a candidate for a jacket with back shoulder darts it is you. You could stand to wear a bit more shoulder pad in your jacket as well.The back shoulder seam needs to have height added in line with the blade prominence, and...
Unlikely. If there is, it will be a marginal amount. Forearm/ front seam will have nothing to let out and shouldn't be touched anyway.See if you can feel for the edge of seam allowance on the back seam. If it is 1/4" to 3/8" wide you cannot do anything.
Your posture poses issues that may not be easy to fix in OTR or even MTM clothingVery hip forward stance, relative length of front is greater than the back so balance of the jackets would need to be addressed.Trouser fit is an issue, it is a complicated fix at the pattern stage for hip forward, tucked seat which presents the calves in the same plane as the seat fullness. Correction for bow leg would also help. Skinny leg trousers accentuate the issues.Would love to see a...
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