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Posts by Testudo_Aubreii

By that, I mean 95% or so black, with some white yarns thrown in to lighten the color a touch. What some call Oxford gray or Cambridge gray, and was used in the mid 20th century for morning coats and strollers.
One thing that doesn't go with a solid peach shirt is peachy skin. You never want to match your skin color with your shirt color. O/O is in dangerous territory with the solid peach shirt there, and Paul Bettany doesn't look good with his here below. On a man with coffee-colored skin, this combo would be the bomb. If you're of Northern European descent, then before donning the solid peach, either (1) make sure your skin has pinks, reds, and tans; or (2) make sure the peach...
Glancing down the Google Images of him, I gather he toned it down a while ago. Never seen a body more desperately in need of a checked DB and textured suitings.
Nice Akubra, Prince. It'll soon be time to start thinking about autumn hats in the northern hemisphere. The Irish Walking Hat in tweed or other wools strikes me as a versatile hat that passes under the radar. This one is handsomely shaped, but he needs to wear it at more of an angle. This one gets the angle right, but it doesn't have the nice shape of the above.
Francois Fillon of France. One of Sarkozy's ministers. Obviously a dresser. He understands the value of dark purple ties. Two of his better efforts: He seems frequently to favor a pencil striped shirt and a tie with a very small but noticeable dot pattern. He'd do better either to have the scale of the tie pattern be bigger than the shirt stripe, or wear a solid tie with noticeable texture. The shirt pattern drowns out the tie pattern. He could learn something from...
Standards for statesmen today aren't near what they were in the days of Tito, JFK, and Harold MacMillan (the last Edwardian). And Anthony Eden would put his head in his hands and weep if he saw the dreck that today's powerful pols routinely wear while thinking they look good. Still, there are some who have been trying to keep up standards. As is frequently noted here, several top pols have been trying harder since they retired to elder statesman roles: Kofi Annan and Bill...
I can't answer for Asia, but I can say that in Mexico City, you can get a good-looking bespoke-with-two-fittings CTM suit, full-canvassed, for under 500 USD. If you buy basic fabric from the tailor, It will be under 600 USD. Will it be a Huntsman, a Davide Taub, or an Anderson & Shepard? No, of course not. But it will have as good a silhouette and fit better than any MTM suit I have seen, except perhaps Alan Flusser Custom. You can also get bespoke Goodyear-welted balmoral...
This might also be of interest: DressPRMex, who used to post at AskAndy, had a useful discussion of several DF tailors, their work, and their prices in 2006. The prices in pesos don't seem to have changed that much in eight years. I'm guessing you'd add 20-25%. Here's his 2006 post. "Gilberto" is Sastreria Gilberto Ortiz DressPRMex says that Gilberto Ortiz is the tailor to Joaquin Lopez-Doriga, Mexico's top TV anchor. L-D does wear some well-fitting suits with high...
Thought I'd revive this thread by mentioning a few of the bespoke menswear options I've discovered in Mexico City (DF) in the past couple of years. Here's the deal on bespoke in DF and the rest of the city. There are 20 million people in the metropolitan region; DF is the country's political, financial, legal, and cultural capital; Mexico has the world's 10th largest economy at purchasing power parity; and DF rarely reaches 85 degrees F, since it's so high up in the...
Also superb, and strictly on menswear: Diana de Marly, Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History (1989). The development of Western men's fashion from about 1300 (the first buttoned and shaped coats) until about 1985 and the dominance of the Armani/droop silhouette. Beautifully illustrated, with excellent discussions of silhouette, color, pattern, material. Her focus is on the relationship between the changing fashions and the changing conception of the ideal man. There is...
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