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Posts by Testudo_Aubreii

I agree that hand-welting isn't everything. So in what ways is John Lobb Hermes or EG so much better than Enzo Bonafe? After all, you are advising him to pay 900 USD for a factory-second Goodyear-welted shoe instead of 667 USD for a hand-welted Bonafe. And those Bonafes look pretty good to me.
Why pay 900USD for a Goodyear-welted factory second when you could pay 600 EUR for a hand-welted Bonafe first? Or if you can wait a bit, even better would be to have Meccarriello make you an MTM hand-welted shoe for less than the Lobb seconds.
Sharp-looking suit, PAS. You both look great. Your bride seems to have gotten a nice fit in the bodice and hip, too. I see Ercoles doesn't always cut a super-short coat. Do you have another shot of the DB vest?
If this is your one black dress shoe, a stich-cap oxford with a classic round toe is probably the most versatile. It will look good on all the occasions you mention. Tricker's Regent is a good example.So is Vass F Last:At EG price points, I would go with hand-welted shoes like Vass or Enzo Bonafe, or with Blake-Rapid constructed shoes like Romano Martegani or Gravati or some Sutor Mantellassis, since hand-welting, Blake/Rapid, or even pure Blake construction is more...
[[SPOILER]] No experience with Luxire, but there are some nice 50/50 linen-cotton blend white dress shirtings in poplin weave out there that breathe a lot better than all-cotton herringbones or twills. The linen keeps them from being transparent, and the cotton keeps it smooth. Look for them in books by Thos. Mason, Tessitura Monti, Monti Prince Rose, etc.Heavy oxfords breathe decently for an all-cotton shirting, because the weave is more open than a poplin, and a lot more...
Glad to have someone with David's experience chime in. David, for those who can't afford the price of Lesser 16oz, what would you recommend as a highly durable alternative? Do you have experience with Smith's Steadfast or Botany books? Or Dugdale English Classics? Sator had one of the clearest discussions I've found of the difference that the ply of the yarns makes to durability. Cloth with 2 ply yarns in both warp and weft is generally more durable than cloth with 2ply...
Got it. I'd be astounded if you got holes in the trouser seat after 10 wears with either of those books. The hopsacks in the Steadfast book probably won't be as tough as the twill weaves, and hopsack can catch on splinters or nails, but Smiths' worsteds and Dormeuil's mohairs are tough cloths.Serendipitously, I just this hour received a length of Huddersfield Cloth's 70/30 wool/mohair 13 oz cloth from the Scissett book. That's the same blend and almost the same weight as...
By "wear well," do you mean "hold up against fraying or tearing for a long time"? Or do you mean "keep a nice tailored shape for a long time?" I thought you were talking about the former--a fabric's resistance to fraying, tearing, or other or other damage. But the last post seems to be talking about a fabric's taking nicely to a tailor's shaping and then keeping that shape. I don't have experience with either Tonik or Steadfast, but tailors and experienced bespoke...
Not a guide to relative to durability, but this is a handy visual key to fabric weaves and designs. The other good place to start is the discussion of weaves' properties in Villarosa and Angeli's The Elegant Man: How to Construct the Ideal Wardrobe (1992). Lots of color photographs of weaves and designs, with helpful discussion of their wear properties. It seems like you know the basics--all else equal, suiting twills like serge or pick-and pick are generally tougher...
It could be, but AD insist on their website that they don't just strike alterations of a block pattern onto the fabric, as today's usual MTM would. Instead, they claim that someone in the workroom drafts an individual pattern for the client, based on the fitter's information. The striking is then done off the client's own unique pattern, which you don't get with MTM like Coppley or H. Freeman or Southwick. This allows for a more custom fit than does striking an altered...
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