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Posts by Testudo_Aubreii

Thought I'd revive this thread by mentioning a few of the bespoke menswear options I've discovered in Mexico City (DF) in the past couple of years. Here's the deal on bespoke in DF and the rest of the city. There are 20 million people in the metropolitan region; DF is the country's political, financial, legal, and cultural capital; Mexico has the world's 10th largest economy at purchasing power parity; and DF rarely reaches 85 degrees F, since it's so high up in the...
Also superb, and strictly on menswear: Diana de Marly, Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History (1989). The development of Western men's fashion from about 1300 (the first buttoned and shaped coats) until about 1985 and the dominance of the Armani/droop silhouette. Beautifully illustrated, with excellent discussions of silhouette, color, pattern, material. Her focus is on the relationship between the changing fashions and the changing conception of the ideal man. There is...
Good thread. These books aren't strictly on menswear, but they are more illuminating on the history of menswear than several of the books in the current history list. Anne Hollander, Sex and Suits. A historical demonstration that Western menswear in the past 1,000 years has been progressive and changing, while womenswear has been cyclical and followed menswear's lead. Menswear blazes in a straight line the trail that womenswear will eventually follow, with lots of spirals...
I think they're now basically defunct. Founded in 1948 by Michel Catris, and making their ties by hand in Barcelona, they were one of the top makers, in terms of both volume and quality, of high-end, high-volume RTW ties in the 1980s. They're not as well made as a Sam Hober or the very top RTW makers, but they're well made. An article in Spanish about the hard times they fell on in the 1990s: http://www.dineroypolitica.com/2004/09/09/larga-crisis-de-corbatas-richel/ Some...
This good thread shouldn't die. If it's patterned odd trousers we're talking, the 1840s-1860s are their heyday. These guys make even the 70s' enthusiasm for bold plaids look halfhearted.    
Anyone know a cloth merchant (preferably online or happy to ship) who sells wool-linen suiting? Prefer 11oz and above. Thanks.
One of the options, as I mentioned, is wool-linen. I don't know why iGents hardly ever discuss this fabric. Here's one of the few useful threads on it, with good pics of olddog/oldtrix in a wool-linen pinstripe. Anybody know where to buy 12 oz wool-linen by the meter?
Unbel defined it pretty well. Let's say it's weather of 60-73 Fahrenheit, or 15 to 23 Celsius. Too warm for the cold-weather fabrics I mention, and too cold for the hot-weather fabrics. Most of the guys here will go for smooth worsteds in that kind of weather, but I like more casual fabrics.Good to know, Unbel. The only linen I have right now is only about 340g. I've yet to try the 400g stuff. Hopefully soon.
Calling all cloth experts... Your thoughts on casual shoulder-season fabrics? SF thead here. Advice appreciated!
Shoulder season is tough for the man who wants to wear a jacket in a casual fabric (i.e., one with real surface texture). In cold weather, tweed, woollen flannel, lambswool, Shetland, and the hairier worsted flannels are no-brainers; and there are corduroy jackets for those who like them. In hot weather, we have linen, cotton poplin, seersucker, and lightweight high-twists that get the casualizing effects of wrinkles. But what about shoulder season? This is the perfect...
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