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Posts by Testudo_Aubreii

Thanks, Joe! That saddle-shouldered coat on your website looks great. You are a worthy heir to Maestro Centofanti. How I wish we could lure you back to Philly! Anyway, best of luck in Hoboken. [[SPOILER]]
Any recent experiences with custom tailors in the Philly region? See my post above. Have all the Philly members left the building?
An undershirt will certainly capture the sweat if it's made of cotton. Of course, it'll also retain the sweat, as cotton fibers hold moisture for a long time. You might want to look into T-shirts made of 50-50 linen-cotton blends. They're mostly sold as outerwear, but I've seen some white ones with the close fit of an undershirt. The linen wicks the sweat away into the air and helps the fabric breathe, while the cotton keeps the fabric smooth.
This is a good observation. My answer to the question is, "Most people can't tell whether a suit is expensive or cheap. Most people can tell the difference between (1) a suit that fits the wearer well and is well made and (2) a suit that fits poorly and is poorly made." I don't think there's enough of a reliable overlap between (1) and expensive and (2) and cheap to say that people can tell the difference between expensive and cheap. You can get suits of type (1) for $400...
I thought I'd bump this by rounding up what I've read here and on Ask Andy about bespoke tailors in the Philly area. Feel free to chime in or correct. I am leaving the MTM shops like Ernesto's and Enzo's out of this, since they don't do bespoke, and there are lots of complaints on the fora about their MTM and alterations services. Gabriele D'Annunzio of D&B Tailors in Newtown Square. Alterations, MTM, and bespoke tailoring, as well as bespoke couture for women (I think)....
Well, Solito are known for cutting some pretty soft and sloped shoulders, which I wouldn't say convey the appearance of strong shoulders (see below). Yet this coat of theirs has a shoulder pad. [[SPOILER]] I'd say maybe on Churchill. His shoulders do look broad here, but I wouldn't call them especially square or straight. [[SPOILER]]
Well, I admit that I do like a straighter-looking shoulder line on SB city suits. Shoulders that are rounded AND extended just look off to me on SB city coats, like the below from Cutter and Tailor. So you have me there.Myself, though, I distinguish sharply between whether a shoulder has padding and whether it appears natural/round/soft. I think of padding as more like the clay that can be used to give a coat's shoulder any shape the tailor likes.
The Northeastern U. S.
I think it depends. Whether and what kind of padding a coat shoulder has is just one factor that goes into creating what we see as the coat's shoulder line. I think almost everybody looks better with some shoulder padding, and that includes guys with straight or square shoulders. As a rough generalization, square-shouldered guys probably look better with padding that is minimal and soft. But there are all kinds of other variables--how the shoulder's slope is cut, how...
I feel your pain. Maybe we should start a "What Should I Do about My Straight Shoulders?" thread.
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