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Posts by bourbonbasted

So I'm in the market for a new utilitarian crew-neck sweater. I need something that I can wear to the office and for layering on the weekends. My usual starting point for such endeavors is William Lockie. They have a geelong option (for pretty cheap) that has me intrigued. However, I'm not 100% what the difference is between plain 'ole Merino wool and geelong (other than £15). Anyone have any insight into geelong? I've handled it in the past and remember a nice hand, but...
Cucinelli is not really what I would consider a value brand. The (laughably) high prices stem from marketing masked as materials and labor. Tailored goods are also an extension of the brand rather than their bread-and-butter (which is obviously knitwear).I have an older jacket from them (maybe from 2005ish?) that is full-canvas. However, all the more recent stuff I've handled has been half-canvassed.
http://wellwornwornwell.tumblr.com/post/80576430143/profiling-the-obsessive-serial-killers-igents-andshameless plug
I think it really depends on what the goal is. I'm a big fan of Incotex chinos/Chinolinos for their louche, imperfect fit on me -- a bit of charm without appearing sloppy. Granted I wouldn't try to pull them off in the context of a "nailed down" look, but they do well for casual wear.
You can certainly make thin-cut pants with pleats, that's not a problem. The problem is when you try and taper RTW pleated pants. The leg can easily be slimmed from the knee down, but that often yields a jodhpur-like result and completely ruins any flattery the pleats provide. As it was explained by my tailor, if you wanted to slim from mid thigh down and create a clean line you'd have to remove the pleat, taper and alter the seat, and then re-make the pleats -- which is...
Because of the pleat, it's really, really hard to taper. Most tailors will tell you it's not possible to do so and keep a clean line. To work around this they will often adjust the seat. While it will certainly help it's not going to have the same effect as, "I'd like to taper from mid thigh through the hem."Toasty, if you're happy (or over it), I wouldn't worry. I think they fit well. Only thing I would consider is cleaning up the bottoms a bit, but for a more relaxed,...
Are the RRLs straight or low-straight?
There's a whole thread about people who will never buy anything from Ambrosi (an opinion extends far beyond the confines of this forum). And of those who still actively purchase from him, many only see the shiny new Armoury version of Ambrosi -- a relationship that keeps him far more disciplined as I understand it. But I think the Ambrosi example only strengthens my argument. People like Ambrosi's pants, but don't like his practices or tact. At a certain point the "dislike...
Sales 101 -- People buy from people they like. Now what characterizes that level of "like" or rapport or however you want to classify it is incredibly subjective. Someone could like a tailor because he follows orders well, whereas another may prefer a tailor that pushes back and offers advice. Either way, to unbel's point, if you didn't value some level of rapport and interaction you'd buy OTR. I'll also add that professionals are marked by their ability to deliver,...
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