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Posts by bourbonbasted

I think the biggest plus of BD collars is that they look way better sans jacket than spreads do. And when you consider you can simply unbutton the collar and (assuming you have a proper collar) tuck the points under the lapel, a BD collar really allows you to have your cake and eat it too.
Nice lapel width and roll there. Who made the jacket?
Like everything else I think going BD sans tie only looks good and natural if you're used to doing it. A hard-starched shirt that's been hanging with a button-fastener from the dry cleaners for two weeks isn't going to look good without a tie. Canta -- all the pictures you posted were of crisp shirts with a second button placement that outs them as meant to be worn with a tie. The shirts that I wear open-necked are not the ones I wear with a tie. In fact I have two...
Yeah I understand that and honestly the majority of bespoke customers I know don't dress that well. But still, that's a rather apparent issue.I guess he could wear them together so infrequently that he's never noticed or cared to notice, but it's still a bit weird to think he wouldn't try to make that right or at the very least have a second pair commissioned while he wears his currents. Then again, I dare not think too much about what goes through the minds of...
Why?
Assuming this is correct (and there's a fair argument that it is), I'm equal parts confused by and envious of his give-no-fucks attitude towards wearing them together.I know the concept of "sprezz" or curmudgeon dishevelment is often lauded (and particularly in the elite eye-talian circles), but this really is a seemingly unprecedented moment of "can't be bothered." It's easier to pull off because it's a casual fabric meant to be worn casually, but given his means and...
To Manton's comment, I assume there is a big difference in cutting a pattern for one person vs. cutting a pattern for everyone (and no one). Plus you're working from a designer's vision rather than measurements, rock of eye, etc. Seems like two completely different skill sets.
Well I think there's a less-than-slight difference between one-time felons and dictators accused of war crimes/noted international dictators with ties to terrorism and human rights violations...I know what you're getting at, but to jed's point, these are internationally recognized and hated figures.
Yeah, again, I don't disagree with your sentiments (I too find the willful acceptance of blood money as despicable). And they may well lose a potential customer here and there because of it. But by-and-large I have to assume their more nefarious clientele will have little-to-no impact on their larger customer base. It also seems that the dictators have created new business for them, as there is a whole slew of otherwise unrelated terrible people wearing their stuff.It...
Capitalism ain't for the faint of heart...And while I agree tailors could and should hold themselves to a higher standard, you have to ask yourself: What are the actual repercussions of dressing oppressive world leaders? Do you think the usual clientele of elite French bespoke tailors (the lawyers and financiers of the world) are going to avoid buying from them because of their client list? Or, better yet, do you think someone who as been using them for years would stop...
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