Hitchcock was trained as both, and will do some of his own work. But if you want a true one-man (or one-couple) shop, even that won't do. He does have a small stable of outworkers--- one of whom also works for Huntsman!
At the end of the day, what really matters is the product and how it works on the client's back. If Despos's shop has their way of making suits, that's great. His track record suggests that that is one way to make it work properly. The London shops have their misfires, but also a lot of success doing it another way.
When my cutter at A&S retired, it came out that he had been using the same coatmaker for my stuff over 15 years or so. The guy worked out of his house 100...
To clarify on W&S "classic bespoke", their arrangement is that John McCabe does the cutting and fitting, and supervises the work on their Indian made suits just as he would the London product. It's just that instead of sending it to his basement or over to Soho, it gets popped off to the workroom in Chennai. But you do have the option of London make as well.
In addition to Byrne, 11 St George St houses a lot of other tailors, some of whom used to be on the Row. Steven Hitchcock is on the ground floor, and John McCabe is now part of Whitcomb and Shaftesbury on 3. W&S offers the option of getting the handwork done in India for a remarkable savings in cost, if that matters.
Elsewhere, Malcolm Plews, one of the most revered practitioners, is back on his own.
I also got a huge endorsement of Kathryn Sargent from someone who...