Well, we shall see. I just ordered a Universal, a white, and a Champagne to do some field research. From all appearances, the Universal might work well with Beaujolais or Chianti. Hell, it wasn't so long ago that something like that was considered pretty large for Bordeaux.
I remain suspicious of the dinner-plate/Astrodome design of the big red glasses, but if the smaller ones don't kill me then it will be a logical prejudice to test.