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Posts by Chilli padi

Thanks for the tip on this. Today I bought a black pair of C&J Handgrade Belgraves for GBP195 + GBP40 for cedar shoe trees. Normally these shoes would have cost GBP300+. They didn't have many Handgrades left in my size (8E) - I was interested in a black pair of Weymouths to complement the dark brown pair I already own but they had none left in my size. The Belgraves are on the same last (337) as the Weymouths though, so they look good. They had black Cliffords in my size...
Guys I can't give you a reason why only two working buttons on the sleeves, but what I can tell you, having spent a significant amount of time on Savile Row over the past couple of weeks, is that it is not at all unusual on a Savile Row suit for only two of the four sleeve buttons to be "working".  A customer can have four working buttons on each sleeve of his coat if he likes, but this is not important to me.
Why have only two working buttons on the sleeve? My answer is that while working sleeve buttons are a nice bespoke touch, if the sleeve length is correct and has four buttons why have any of the buttons working at all?  I don't intend to leave any of them undone.  Also, based on my discussions with various Savile Row tailors over the past week or so, it's fairly normal that only two of the four sleeve buttons are "working".  The customer can ask for four "working"...
Thanks for your input.   I have now been measured up and will report back.  First fitting will be towards the end of this month.  The coat will have four buttons (two of which will be "working") on each sleeve, but I'm one of those people who thinks it's ostentatious to leave the first sleeve button undone.  Different people have different views about this of course.
If you have the chance to go to Hong Kong, I don't think they have a minimum order (can't remember) and the turnaround is two or three days.  I have four shirts from Ascot Chang, all ordered from the store in Central.  I also have about eight from Jantzen.  The AC shirts are noticeably better, but by the same token they were on average at least three or four times as expensive as the Jantzen shirts (AC cost me the HKD equivalent of around GBP100 per shirt, but I chose...
It's been a while since this topic was last discussed. I am in the market for a new bespoke suit.  I am doing some preparation before I do the rounds at Savile Row and surrounding environs. For my new suit, I have in mind a single-breasted coat but I'm not sure about the number of buttons.  I have three other suits, all with single-breasted, three-button coats.  I also have a single-breasted, one-button blazer that I bought from Kilgour French Stanbury and like very...
I used to buy a lot of TM Lewin shirts. Probably own six of them. I haven't bought any in the past couple of years though because: (a) they are cut too narrow for me (and I am skinny.), and (b) the tail is too short for me. However I like them a lot better than Thomas Pink shirts which I always find are cut too wide for me -- way too much extra fabric around the belly. One good thing about TM Lewin is the shop on Jermyn Street always seems to be having some sort of sale or...
In a sense I have come full circle on the cufflinks issue.  I started work with plain one-button barrel cuffs.  This was back in the good old days when I knew nothing about quality shirts.  The scales were subsequently lifted from my eyes and I banished all shirts with button-down collars and/or pockets to the back of the wardrobe in preference for numerous Jermyn Street shirts from Thomas Pink and TM Lewin.  I probably have about 15 pairs of cufflinks -- a mixture of...
I have just bought a new fragrance to wear when I don't feel like the orange blossominess (real word?) of Caron's L'Anarchiste.  It is called L'eau de Navigateur and it is made by L'Artisan Parfumeur in Paris.  To my (untrained) nose these are both in the woody/spicy family of scents.
To which list the following should be added: Schedoni of Italy (suppliers to Ferrari, see here) Valextra of Italy (no website that I can find) Connolly of England (suppliers to Rolls Royce and others; again no decent website I can find) Papworth of England (I think they might be owned by Swaine Adeney Brigg but their products are cheaper because they are machine-sewn rather than hand-sewn) Tanner Krole of England (see here)
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