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Posts by S. Magnozzi

Quote: Originally Posted by sellahi22 It's probably fair to say that people take an overly categorical view of acceptable and unacceptable fabric brands. However I disagree about your point about "normal" and "adequate" suitings. I have plain grey suits in Lesser 10 oz and H&S Cape Horn Vista 11 oz (with a bit of cashmere), and there is a world of difference. The H&S cloth feels softer and does not look crisp. It also has a bit of a sheen. The Lesser...
Quote: Originally Posted by Lightbringer +1 In all fairness, I went with Mina for shirts too despite being reasonably satisfied with my existing shirtmaker. But this is because my existing shirtmaker isn't very good with unfused collars and Mina is. I like a mix of both. Interesting as I was quite let down with her approach to soft collars and cuffs compared to what Anna M provides. I asked her for "identical," whilst wearing an Anna M...
I recall seeing Mina's having the pancerina as well, which I quite like.
Quote: Originally Posted by sellahi22 We're not talking about garments molding to the body over time. We're talking about the cutter using an iron to stretch/shrink the cloth so that the garment takes a particular shape even before it is ever worn. This shaping is temporary, and the garment needs to be pressed with a specific technique, preferably by an expert, in order to restore it. Again, I am not refuting this. I simply state that the...
Quote: Originally Posted by sellahi22 The iron shaping is inherently temporary. The cloth returns to its original shape over time, and humidity/steam accelerates the process. The trousers then need to be carefully pressed to achieve the same effects as the original shaping. Jeffreyd has written extensively on this topic, so you should probably read up before posting further. I know what you're speaking of, and naturally garments will mold to...
Quote: Originally Posted by sellahi22 He's not talking about pressing, he's talking about shaping i.e. stretching/shrinking areas of the cloth with an iron. Yes, but the same answer applies. I press my trousers based on the creases and they maintain their shape just fine.
Sounds excellent, I wear them year round. Season ties are more about texture and colour than construction...
Quote: Originally Posted by Ataturk Well, yeah. One of the great things I've heard about amrbosi is how they shape the trousers. That's done with an iron and the effect isn't permanent. So do you send them back to italy to get pressed? With the turnaround time you might get to wear them once a year. I cannot tell if you're being facetious or not but regular ironing following the creases works fine...
Quote: Originally Posted by Manton I have only one pair of NSM trousers. There is significantly less handwork. Much of the detailing is the same. They fit quite well but differently, less "shape" around the seat and less taper to the leg. That is interesting considering NSM is quite agressive in styling. Quote: Originally Posted by banis Tapering on Amrosi's is too extreme. It is 18.5-19 cm. on my pants....
EG Gladstone.
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