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Posts by Fred G. Unn

I'm not sure the standing on your toes pic tells us much. Probably there is too much volume in the vamp area, but from the attached images it's sort of hard to be definitely sure of anything. Since these are your first "proper pair of boots," what size did you get? What size do you wear in other brands? This might be a ridiculous question, but since you mentioned you usually wear shoes priced 50-90 USD, you are aware that Meermins use UK sizing and not US, correct?
I've sort of suspected as much. It seems like virtually every other respected shoe brand uses a shank. I never understood what was so special about AEs 360 welt that allowed them to get away without using a shank while everyone else does. You mentioned their vintage pairs. Did they use a shank? If so, any idea when they stopped?
Also, Vass on sale from €499 at Zimmerman and Kim including this Budapester with a 270 goyser, lasted trees, and JR soles: http://shop.zimmermannkim.com/collections/vass
To apologize for the above thread derailment, here's a pretty decent sale at Borghini: http://www.borghiniclassic.com/eshop/en/sale-men-6?id_category=6&n=167#/ C&J Conistons for 347,54 €, Edward Green Cumberlands for 682,79 €, etc. Gotta get a bit lucky with size though.
The thread is still there as far as I can tell, so possibly it's just the glue failing between the stitches and the edge. At one point I maybe had approx. 10 AEs, but now only 2, these chukkas and a pair of loafers. (I was a bit of a slow learner in terms of how a shoe should actually fit I guess.) No issue at all with the loafers.
Ok, thanks! I was just curious as it seems odd to have occurred in the exact same location, on the inside edge and outside edge of both shoes. I was wondering if the added support of a shank would have given more support right there, above where the front of the heel attaches to the sole. I don't think I have any other shoes where that separation has occurred.
This was brought up sort of off-topic on another thread, but I was curious what opinions are about it on this thread. AE sort of famously advertises their shankless construction and they say the shank is unnecessary because of the 360 welt. I've never quite understood this rationale. I currently only have two pairs of AEs, but my AE Malverns have the same sort of failure in both shoes as shown below: Is that just glue failure? Or some other failure of construction?...
Maybe, but I've honestly never quite understood that argument. I currently only have two pairs of AEs, but that spot is exactly where the soles of my AE Malverns have failed. Perhaps it's just shoddy glue, but I can't help but suspect that a shank would have given the added support that the sole apparently required there.
B&S has had a ton of sub-$400 Vass lately too. I think I've gotten 4 pairs of Vass off B&S this year. No affiliation with any of these links, but these BNIB Vass are $350:http://www.styleforum.net/t/507607/final-sale-350-for-bnib-vass-shoes-different-models-and-sizes/0_30This is BNIB Vass is $425: http://www.styleforum.net/t/508360/vass-44-london-model-antique-cognac-medium-brown-budapest-last-bluchers-derby-shoes-trees-bags-box/0_30These Budays are all $450:...
Ok, that's pretty cool. Never thought of that before.If tightness is really a concern, you can always do it the way some figure skaters do, and lace completely around the hook. Instead of going around it from the bottom, go around the top of the hook down to the bottom and then up and across to the next hook. That's not going to loosen much at all. My daughter's coach had her lace her boots that way when she thought she wasn't getting enough ankle support on her jumps.
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