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Posts by agjiffy

No idea where you get your info but the Savile row firms that I've used have a cutter doing the initial measurements, cutting and subsequent fittings. That covers kilgour and huntsman. My understanding is that RA is the same but I gave no personal experience. So what firms are you talking about where the head cutter won't measure or do the fittings?
Interesting. I've never heard a tailor denigrate another's work. Some of the Italian's hate the non-Italian clothes that I wear, but that has struck me more as a stylistic preference than an attack on someone else's work. I once begged a shoemaker to help me identify things wrong with another's shoes that I was wearing and I eventually got them to give some modest criticism (as well as an offer to try to fix them). Anyway, after doing this for a long time and spending...
I haven't Dopey but I would assume that peter can't contact old huntsman customers either because he is contractually restricted or because he doesn't feel that it is appropriate (or both). I think the split was amicable as Peter was particularly close with huntsman'so previous owners and wouldn't have left while the brand was under their watch, but that once they left it was pretty easy to take what I understand to be a magnificent offer with RA.
I don't think I share the same view of style as Roubi but he is passionate about the brand and a far as I can tell he stays out of Pat's way. I think my buying has shifted more toward Cifonelli than huntsman, but that has more to do with exchange rates than anything else.
There was only controversy if you think someone anonymously slandering a tailoring house based on alleged rumor is controversy. For what it's worth, I've seen the sample from the picture and it's pretty magnificent. It's hard to imagine having to hand stitch that cloth and I don't envy the people that have to do so. The coat was a little too heavy for me but trying it on convinced me that i should commission a huntsman overcoat soon.
I don't have any Matuozzo shirts. I'm sure they are nice. But I have lots of shirts from top Neapolitan makers. The fit is nowhere near Charvet bespoke. And neither is the selection of fabric or the level of service. And Charvet would happily add hand-stiching if I wanted, at least for the sleeve attachment and perhaps several other places. It just doesn't add anything. I generally find most of what I've seen from Naples to be sub-par, and a little bit silly for a...
Check out des merrion. He disappeared for a few years due to some unfortunate legal woes (nothing to do with tailoring or customers) but he is now back and makes a really excellent garment that is in your price range (or was the last time I checked).
I don't think handsewing tells you that much about the quality of a shirt. Charvet has absolutely none and makes the best bespoke shirt in the world. I get that it's part of the Neapolitan vocabulary, but in my experience handsewing doesn't correlate to anything having to do with quality.
Right around $8000 all in if you are in NYC.
I've never understood the appeal of charvet rtw. One collar style, very blousy and a little bit fragile. The fabrics are great, but the tariff is too high. The bespoke on the other hand is out of this world and beyond compare of anything I've tried. Can't speak to the Demi-mesure, but if avoid the rtw and highly recommend the full bespoke.
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