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Posts by agjiffy

Lordsuperb you use a SR tailor. Let's hear about it.
^ ah thank you. He has more I believe but might be in a different color. Grunwald true style.
Do you mean among the general public or among a smaller subset of those who care about style? I think savile row definitely has name cachet among the gen pop, although my sense is that those who want to try bespoke are increasingly looking elsewhere.
Many of the savile row houses have their own calling card. For Huntsman it is the house tweeds. I suppose some might think of them as gimmicky but I love 'em. They are all milled at the ancient islay woollen mill in Scotland and I can't add much to what Huntsman says about it here: https://www.huntsmansavilerow.com/bespoke/your-choice-cut-and-cloth/huntsman-tweeds. The depth of these tweeds is incredible. They can look grey/brown from afar and lime green up close. ...
LAGuy - on the marketing point, my sense is that these are places that historically haven't wanted to do much marketing. Production is limited because they can only produce so many suits in a year, and most houses can basically fill their dance card with quarterly trips to New York. They've liked being insular clubs. That being said, it feels like that is changing a little bit with Instagram profiles and the ease of zero cost marketing.
I agree that the darts aren't an issue. Any front dart will do that. The purpose of that picture wasn't to highlight an issue as much as it was simply to show a feature of a huntsman coat. They have front darts and those darts manipulate the pattern. As for the stitching, it is below the lapel and visible to the naked eye. It also appears in the trousers. I can't think of a good reason for it and it's only on one of my suits so I believe it is an error.
Some notes on the details. The buttonholes are lovely. Not like those floating french jobs, but really nice. Your front dart with throw off your pattern, so if those things bother you take that into account. For me, it only becomes and eye sore at the pocket as show here: But some handwork is not so good. For example, why use white thread on a grey suit, particularly of some of the stitching is going to be evident in places visible to the naked eye? Seems like...
Here is a relatively recent Huntsman commission. You can see the house style pretty easily. One-button, a swelled chest, straight shoulders angled downward, moderate padding at the shoulders, a longer coat (about an inch longer than other tailors cut it) and an x-shape with perfect balance. The coat is button point looks just a drop tight here but my weight fluctuates and overall I'm happy with it. More than anything, I think it looks very Huntsman. And the...
This is a thread about the current state of Savile Row, in particular those houses that have been thought of for decades as one of the places to go for bespoke clothing. From where I'm sitting, interest in Italian bespoke (Neapolitan, mainly) currently dwarfs that of the row (although that may be a bias of mine due to time spent here). But there are some great things about the Row. For example: - You don't have to be an internet clothing expert to come out of there...
A couple new arrivals from Torsten yesterday that will be by next two commissions: a vintage dogtooth Shetland tweed from ormezzano that I will have made into a patch pocket, single-breasted with natural shoulders and a lightweight basket weave wool from Mario zenga for an unlined summer jacket.
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