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Posts by Griffyndor

The combination of the roped shoulder with shirring is not uncommon in the French tailoring tradition (and I would guess that the French borrowed it from the Italians). Setting aside the aesthetics, the very high, small armhole that you see on French bespoke can be somewhat restrictive and tight. That shirring that you see results from having a sleeve that is much larger than the armhole, and therefore results in a roomier, more comfortable sleeve. So there is a real...
I really love C&M. Michael Browne and Francis Paley always look great. I thought closely about using them before I went to Gieves and the deciding factor for me was that every C&M seemed to have a single house style with a very structured garment, a roped shoulder and a wide lapel out of the Sexton tradition. I really like the style and a good portion of Taub's garments are similar (Taub worked at Sexton), but Taub also makes things that are totally different, including...
My newest, from GTC:
Davide comes to New York three times a year.
^ I have no experience with Poole. I have a friend who wears Richard Anderson. The garments look great.
The second two look similar to W Bill to me. Maybe not the exact same colorways:
I made an order with Davide Taub at Gieves & Hawkes. I haven't received a commission yet so I can't speak to the results, but I have a high degree of confiedence (so much so that I'm breaking my own rule and commissioning a second garment before the first is done). Davide is a pretty impressive guy and his knowledge and skill are off the charts. The rack of garments that he had for other customers in NYC was staggering. He is a really wonderful person to spend an hour...
It pains me to say it but I'd stay away from Huntsman. Of my last four commissions, three are bad. By "bad", I'm taking about jackets with bizarre defects like gaping at the neck, length issues, and one that was so small it simply didn't fit. The other isn't bad, but it also doesn't feel much like Huntsman to me stylistically. My sense is that through the various ownership, management and personnel changes that have taken place over the last three or four years something...
Smith's still makes Solaro. Scabal has a new dupioni book this year. I thought dormueil still did sportex as well under a different name, but not sure about that.
Nice. You're a stone cold assassin. Post some pics if you get a chance. I've never seen Formosa bespoke. And don't forget to book a month in advance to take your girl to Mimi when you come to NYC. Or someone else's girl. You gotta be yourself.
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